The Place: I am not generally a fan or frequent visitor of Midtown steakhouses. I worked at one for many years and I think I’ve had my fill of artery-clogging overindulgence. Plus, most are very corporate, absurdly expensive, and more about the location than the food itself. I figured I’d make an exception with Cuerno for a quick pre-theater lunch and I was blown away. This is a high-end Mexican steakhouse that is beautifully designed and despite being inside a Rockefeller Center building, has the style and flair of a restaurant in Mexico City. The best part was that there were relatively affordable tacos (although some would argue that $12-$22 for one taco is outrageous) on the menu. And these proved to be quite extraordinary.
In addition to the tacos, you receive some complimentary chips with an array of interesting housemade salsas that were surprising and range from mild and smoky to fiery and bold. So in many ways, visiting here at lunch is a good deal.
The Dish: My wife ordered the Skirt Steak Taco, which was truly excellent and showcased the quality of the beef here. I had to break all the rules and order vegetarian (in a steakhouse!) but the Gringa de Portobello Taco might have destroyed every single carnivorous bone in my body. A thinly pounded portobello mushroom was grilled perfectly and marinated with al pastor flavors and topped with smoky pineapples and pickled onions. You would be forgiven in thinking this was pork since the charred edges and meaty center were brilliantly designed to fit into a steakhouse like this. And if more places in Midtown were like Cuerno, I would hang out here more often. Price: $15
| CUERNO |
| 1271 Avenue of the Americas (at West 50th Street), Inside Time & Life Building Midtown West (332) 269-0094 |
| cuernony.com |
