Around the World in One Kitchen

CURRY CHICKEN AND MACARONI PIE from BARBADOS – Around the World in One Kitchen

I’m not sure why Barbados wasn’t higher on my bucket list before now, but after doing the research about this island nation, I’m dying to go. In fact, I’m ready to move there. When I explained to Sam we can go swimming with sea turtles, he was on board too.

After all, the place is nicknamed the Gem of the Caribbean. The lifestyle sounds incredibly vibrant, diverse, and relaxing. The weather is pretty great and let’s not forget about the food. And for now, that’s the closest we’re going to get.

THE CUISINE

The cuisine of Barbados is heavily influenced by many of its inhabitants over time, beginning with the native Arawak and Amerindian people. Of course, like many of its fellow Caribbean nations, there is a strong mix of traditional African, Portuguese, Creole, Irish, British, and Indian cuisine.

Perhaps because of this, Barbadian (or Bajan) food is heavily spiced and bold. They have a huge variety of hot sauces which would make for a wonderful souvenir or two when I finally do check it off my bucket list.

Due to their Caribbean location, the island cuisine leans heavily on seafood. The National Dish is a combination of flying fish (which might be fried, baked, or steamed) and cou cou (a cooked mash made with okra and cornmeal) .

Other fish you’ll find on the Bajan table include mahi mahi, kingfish, swordfish, and red snapper. They’re often served with a spicy gravy and a rotating roster of side dishes, many which include rice and peas or beans.

Meat and vegetables are also very plentiful – especially pork and chicken and vegetables like sweet potatoes, cassava, and cabbage.

And to wash it all down, there is bottle after bottle of rum. You see why I’m dying to move here?

BAJAN FOOD IN NEW YORK

So it wasn’t until this project that I heard about two of the prime Bajan restaurants in the city and wouldn’t you know that I have yet to visit either? They both sort of came to my attention coincidentally.

Both are in Brooklyn amidst the Caribbean community in Crown Heights and Prospect Lefferts Garden.

Dying to try the breadfruit cou cou and the pudding and souse at Cocks. And at Culpepper’s, they actually have flying fish on the menu. So before I pack my bags for Barbados, I’ll be pre-sampling the food, that’s for sure.

THE VIDEO

THE DISHES

I was dying to try flying fish, especially if I didn’t have to catch it myself. But I wasn’t able to locate any. Perhaps I should have searched deeper into the Caribbean community in Brooklyn, but it was hard for me to get there in time for this episode.

So without the proper fish, I felt like we should search for something else.

And that’s when I came across the idea of curry chicken, which is popular all over the Caribbean and happens to be a favorite of mine. I did some digging to try to piece together a recipe that represented the way they make it in Barbados. Hopefully, I succeeded.

The difference between the curry chicken from the Caribbean and the chicken curry from Desi countries like Bangladesh is that curry chicken uses a curry powder blend (modeled after what you would find in the UK) and the Desi versions are sauce based.

We use a pretty hot curry powder blend for this dish. Remember the Bajans like their food hot!

And then to pair with the curry chicken, I thought about making Cou Cou (part of the National Dish) but when I stumbled upon macaroni pie, I knew Sam would not be able to resist it.

Macaroni pie is basically a baked macaroni and cheese, but is uses the addition of ketchup and mustard.

The proper cheese to use seems to be Anchor Cheddar from New Zealand (I can not figure out why) or if you can’t find that, you can use a similar sharp white cheddar.

THE RECIPE

Curry Chicken and Macaroni Pie from Barbados

With a good amount of heat and lots of flavor, this typical Bajan curry chicken is super tender and pairs perfectly with the island's favorite tangy cheesy macaroni pie.

Curry Chicken

  • 2 chicken quarters (cut into pieces)
  • 2 lemons (juiced)
  • 1 tbspn olive oil
  • 1 tbpsn butter
  • 4-6 cloves garlic (roughly chopped)
  • 1 onion (chopped)
  • 6 tbspn hot curry powder
  • 1 tbspn cumin
  • 2 tspn paprika
  • 2 tspn turmeric
  • 2 potatoes (diced)
  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme

Macaroni Pie

  • 8 ounces tubed macaroni
  • 12 ounces cheddar cheese (Anchor is best, but any sharp white cheddar will do)
  • 1 small onion (grated)
  • 1 cup evaporated milk
  • 1/3 cup ketchup
  • 1 tbspn mustard
  • 1 egg (beaten)
  • 1 tspn fresh thyme (chopped)
  • 1/4 cup fine bread crumbs

Curry Chicken

  1. Toss the chicken in the lemon juice and marinate in the refrigerator for 30-60 minutes.

  2. Heat olive oil and butter over medium high. Add garlic and gently cook until aromatic but not burned. Add onions and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.

  3. Add curry powder, cumin, paprika, and turmeric. Cook until a paste almost begins to form.

  4. Add potatoes and chicken without liquid. Toss with the spices and cook until browned. Simmer for 5-10 minutes. Then add about 1 cup of water to come up to the top of the chicken. Cover and cook at a simmer for 20 minutes.

  5. Remove lid and add thyme. Cover and simmer for another 10-15 minutes.

Macaroni Pie

  1. Preheat oven to 350° F.

  2. Boil water. Add macaroni and cook until it is tender but not overcooked. Drain and put back in saucepan.

  3. Add grated onion, cheese, evaporated milk, ketchup, mustard, and beaten egg. Season with salt, pepper, and thyme. Mix well.

  4. Pour mixture into a greased dish and top with some more grated cheese. Add bread crumbs all over. Bake for 40 minutes.

HOW I SCREWED IT UP

This was a very successful meal. The chicken was tender and flavorful. And the macaroni pie was pretty hard to screw up.

If anything, I may have gone a little heavy on the spice (at least for my family) with the curry chicken and the macaroni pie could have used a bit more ketchup and mustard to play up that distinct tanginess.

But nobody really complained and I was very happy with dinner. See, Barbados, you have yet to let me down!!

SAM’S REACTION

Sam wasn’t going to try the curry chicken – I was sure of it, so I didn’t hold back on the spice.

But I was sure not to add any hot sauce to the macaroni pie because this was all his. From the minute he tried the shredded cheddar to when the macaroni was put in front of him, he was one happy camper.

It’s probably a good thing we didn’t find that flying fish and Cou Cou.

NEXT TIME

This one is getting a little closer to home. At least as far as my ancestors are concerned. The food from Belarus is mostly recognizable to me and now there’s even more pressure not to screw it up.

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.