Around the World in One Kitchen Travel Video

MOULES FRITES from BELGIUM – Around the World in One Kitchen

Belgium has always sounded amazing to me. The name itself conjures up images (and scents) of waffles for most Americans. The country’s specialties include beer, chocolate, mussels, fries, and of course, waffles. Sounds like an incredible country.

And it’s a fitting finale for this journey in one kitchen. Don’t worry – we are not throwing in the towel. We are just moving to another kitchen (and another house)! So next time, expect similar hijinks but in a new space.

THE CUISINE


Belgium, unfortunately gets lost in the shadow of its delicious neighbors. The European country is surrounded by France, Germany, and the Netherlands. Belgians cuisine is a little similar to those culinary powerhouses, but they have some specialties that only they can claim.

Everybody has heard of Belgian waffles. Although the stuff they serve in Belgian is even more delicious than what you might have had. Sure, we know the frozen stuff or the kinds you get at a diner, but only recently have true authentic Belgian waffles (with delicious toppings like speculoos cookie butter) gained popularity stateside.

If anybody knows their beer, Belgian styles rank right up there alongside traditional German lagers and British ales. Belgian beer is even more exciting (if you ask me) with their wild yeasts and fruity sours and tradition of Trappist monks making the nectar.

And we’re just getting started. Belgian chocolates, cheeses, and stews are legendary. Some of the most important ingredients in the cuisine include endive (the Belgian variety, of course), leeks, rabbit, asparagus, and potatoes.

Of course, I have yet to mention the National Dish – the one we are cooking this week. Mussels and fries. There is no better combination and while the French serve this dish at their brasseries,  the Belgians have perfected it.

BELGIAN FOOD IN NEW YORK

So I purchased a waffle for Sam to experience after dinner. We could have made waffles, but we didn’t have a true waffle maker and I didn’t want to invest in one just for this one episode.

One day I’m going to bring Sam to try the best waffle in the city (possibly the world). Waffles & Dinges has been operating food trucks, carts, and kiosks for well over a decade in the city. Before the pandemic (and one day again very soon), I would bring tour groups to the business and introduce them to real Belgian (and liège) waffles and introduce them to the owner Thomas DeGeest. It truly is one of my favorite businesses in all of New York. And in fact, the tour company I work with would give tours of their production facility in Brooklyn (hopefully they will again soon)!

It would have made sense for me to get a waffle for us from Wafels & Dinges (they ship), but I didn’t plan with enough time and when we made this video, I was not going into the city regularly due to pandemic concerns. I purchased one at a gourmet food shop around the corner from our apartment. They’re made in Belgium so they were close enough.

Of course, waffles are not the only Belgian specialty available in New York. You can try pounds of moules frites (with different sauce options) at Belgian cafés like B. Cafe and BXL. There used to be many more (I remember seeking out the all-you-can-eat options when I first moved to the city), but sadly many have closed.

And while you’re at it, be sure to try some Belgian beer at the above options or just about any specialty beer bar around the city. Burp Castle in the East Village specializes in Belgian beers so that’s a good place to start.

THE VIDEO

Sam enjoyed exploring the mussels, but we got into a bit of a heated argument when he wouldn’t accept that “French fries” are known as “frites” in Belgium. Whatever they’re called, we agree they are delicious.

I also get a few of my best (or worst) Dad jokes in there, so you definitely do not want to miss it. And stay tuned to the end when Sam finally gets to try a famous Belgian waffle.

Plus, don’t miss Sam’s musical interlude!!

THE DISH

Moules frites are not distinct to Belgium, but they are much loved in this Western European country and possibly first paired together here.
You can find them in France and Germany, of course, but I think most can agree this is an iconic Belgian dish. The words moules and frites are both French words, which is one of three official languages of Belgium.
Mussels were originally thought of as a food for the poor, much like lobster and oysters. Due to their abundance in the North Sea (which is connected to Belgium through a series of canals and rivers), mussels became a popular wintertime bowl of proteins. They are steamed with some sort of liquid (usually white wine, beer, or Pernod).
Today, most of the mussels in Belgium come from Zeeland in the neighboring country of the Netherlands. Similarly, some of the best mussels available in the United States today come from Prince Edward Island to our northerly neighbor (Canada).
If you’ve never tried mussels, you must! When done right, they are plump and meaty with a slight briny flavor and they take on the notes of whatever vegetables, herbs, and liquid they are steamed in.
Frites are said to be more popular in Belgium than they are in France. Although Sam disagrees, we should probably be calling the stuff we eat with burgers Belgian fries rather than French fries. And along with pairing them with mussels (the light brininess of the mollusks pair perfectly with the crisp greasy potatoes), Belgians love to dip their fries in an array of sauces – variations of mayonnaise is the most popular, but ketchup, mustard, and others are acceptable.
In Belgium, they most often use bintje potatoes, which have a high starch content and are perfect for crisping up in fat. Yukon Gold are an adequate substitute.
The fries also must be fried in animal fat. Beef tallow is the most traditional, but we used lard (since we had some from our Belarus experiment). Also, it is important to slice the fries thick by hand, completely dry them, and then fry them twice. The first fry is at a slightly lower temperature and then after they rest, they are fried at a higher temperature until brown and crisp. Tossed with salt and served hot, they are absolutely amazing!!

THE RECIPE

 

Moules Frites from Belgium

Considered the National Dish of Belgium there might be no better combination than tender steamed mussels in a white wine broth and a side of twice fried crispy potatoes. Don't forget the dipping sauce!

Mussels (Moules)

  • 4 pounds mussels (cleaned, scrubbed, and debearded)
  • 4 tbspn butter
  • 1 onion (sliced)
  • 1 leek (sliced)
  • 2 celery ribs (sliced)
  • 1 fennel (sliced)
  • 2 shallots (sliced)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4 sprigs of thyme
  • 1 cup white wine
  • ground black pepper

Frites (Fries)

  • 2.5 pounds potatoes (bintje or Yukon Gold)
  • 1/2 cup beef tallow or lard
  • salt to taste

Mussels (Moules)

  1. After you clean and scrub the mussels, heat butter in large pot. Once melted, add onions and celery and cook over medium until they start to soften.

  2. Add fennel and shallots, mix well and cook for a few minnutes.

  3. Add mussels, bay leves, and thyme sprigs. Increase heat to medium high. Cover and cook for 2-3 minutes. You might want to shake the pot once or twice.

  4. Add white wine, black pepper, and bring to boil. Cover again and cook. Shake occasionally.

  5. Cook for 3-5 minutes or until the mussels have mostly opened.

Fries (Frites)

  1. Wash and scrub potatoes. Peel them if you like.

  2. Slice the potatoes into long thick sticks and put on paper towels to dry thoroughly. Add some salt to draw out the excess moisture.

  3. Melt beef tallow or lard in a large pot or fryer, Make sure to bring the fat up to 280° F before adding the fries.

  4. Add potatoes (but do not overcrowd) and fry for 5-6 minutes without moving.

  5. Drain the fries after they have become a bit golden and soft. Allow them to cool.

  6. Heat the fat again to 350°F this time. When hot enough, add the fries back in for a second fry. Cook for about 3-4 minutes until browned. Shake the pot to keep them from sticking.

  7. Drain them again and add them into a big bowl.

  8. Salt them to taste and eat hot with a side of mayonnaise or your favorite dipping sauce.

HOW I SCREWED IT UP

It’s pretty hard to screw up the mussels. You have to make sure they are still alive when you put them in the pot. And be careful not to overcook, although they will still be edible just a little bit tough.

This was not my first foray into mussel steaming and they came out fantastic. I was really impressed with myself. And in some ways, I’m glad Sam didn’t eat the mussels, because there were more for me.

I also did a great job with the fries. I managed to not burn down the apartment (which is good since we were getting ready to move – and I imagine the new owners would not have been happy) and got them perfectly crisp without burning them.

So I might even say this was one of my biggest successes of this journey so far.

SAM’S REACTION

It came as no surprise that Sam had no interest in tasting the mussels. They are certainly an intimidating food item. He loved touching their shell and looking at them – much like in a biology class, but they were not going near his plate. I didn’t try mussels until I was much older and it took some chewing and thinking before I realized I liked these mollusks.

The fries were a much easier sell, although I do think he was more excited about the side of ketchup than the actual fries. He is three, after all!

Perhaps the best compliment he could have given the fries is when he said they taste like the ones you get at restaurants. Or as he calls them “the regular ones.”

And then the moment he had been waiting for the entire day was the liège waffle I had purchased. He clearly loved it – you can see his eyes get wider with the first bite. But then something happened and he decided he would rather have a cookie. Kids!

NEXT TIME

We’ll be in a brand new kitchen and heading for our first adventure in Central America. We’re heading to where the Caribbean meets Central America – we’re going to Belize…

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.