THE PLACE: For those that have bemoaned the lack of good Vietnamese in New York, I have great news. Banh Anh Em opened earlier this year in that strange area between the East Village, Union Square, and Gramercy. The surrounding bars all have a fratty quality, but this little restaurant with a sizable counter hosts those looking for some serious flavors of Vietnam. I have not had Vietnamese food this good since I visited the country many years ago. In fact, this will be the first of two posts about their food. I only reserve that distinction for truly special meals.
THE MENU: Alongside summer rolls and banh mi, you’ll find some dishes that are often overlooked in the city’s Vietnamese restaurants. The stand-out here that everyone talks about is the Bánh Uớt Chồn tower, which looks like an afternoon tea party. Here instead of little finger sandwiches, you create your own rice pancake wraps with an array of fresh ingredients like pickled mustard greens, pork, and mango. I didn’t order that because I was dining solo, but I was tempted to convince the stranger sitting next to me at the counter to go half-half.
THE DISH: Instead, I ordered myself a plate of Bánh Cuốn Ha Noi, a specialty of the capital city that I had never encountered before now. These look like dumplings but are closer to rice rolls. The delicate rice paper holds together a filling of sweet ground pork, shrimp, and wood ear mushrooms. Topped with cilantro and fried shallots, this dish had lots for the eyes and mouth. Flavors and textures ran deep with notes of garlic, pepper, and sweet porky goodness. They were irresistible and it became impossible for me to stop popping another bite into my mouth. If that isn’t a sign of success, I don’t know what is. Price: $14.95
| BANH ANH EM |
| 99 Third Avenue (between East 12th and East 13th Street), East Village (833) 674-5878 |
| banhanhem.com |
