Kanyakumari is a gem of a restaurant that does not seem to get as much hype as some others this past year. My guess is they don’t have an influential publicist? Too bad I’m not so influential because I think this place is great.
It’s a modern, high-end Indian restaurant that focuses on different regions along India’s southwest coast (which is a very large area). The dishes on the menu are named for the specific region, for example “From Maharashtra,” a rich coconut-based chicken curry or a spiced clam dish called “From Goa”.
I have not been to India and would love to go (and eat in) any of these regions, but after tasting a tender peppery beef shank, I would like to certainly go to Malabar.
From my online research, I believe “From Malabar” is a influenced by a Kerala Beef Fry also known as Ularthiyathu.
This stunning appetizer features a beef shank with a hunk of tender, perfectly spiced beef in the center, topped with Madras onions and some potent chili. The browned meat has a layer of crispness that comes from both the toasted spices and the rendered fat. After that layer, the rest of the beef melts away too easily.
It’s a real showstopper of a dish and a perfect first stop on your culinary trip from one region to another. It also makes you scratch your head as to why this place does not get more buzz. Price: $29
| KANYAKUMARI |
| 20 East 17th Street (between Fifth Avenue and Broadway), Union Square (212) 641-0401 |
| kanyakumarinyc.com |
