There are certain dishes that get credit for being invented in New York. Baked Alaska, Waldorf salad, the Cronut, among many others. But on that often gets overlooked are those ubiquitous Cold Sesame Noodles.
Found in most Chinese takeout restaurants, the story goes these were invented by Taiwanese chef Shorty Tang at his restaurant Hwa Yuan in Chinatown in the 1970’s. Since then, Tang’s family have made a few revivals of his original dish.
Unfortunately, I missed every single one of them, but the noodles had always been on my radar. Ok, maybe not for 40 years, but for at least the last ten.
The most recent iteration, Shorty Tang Noodle Shop in Chelsea closed in 2020, but now a similar restaurant that pays homage to the chef and his dishes resides in the same location called Tangy Noodles. This is where I finally got to try the dish inspired by the original.
Considering I never tasted Shorty’s version, I can’t compare this to the original, but these noodles were both refreshing and comforting. Thick chewy wheat noodles wear the mild, complex sauce very well. Peanut butter, along with sesame oil, chili paste, and a hit of black vinegar makes for a balanced sweet, nutty, spicy, and yes, tangy experience.
In 2017, Shorty’s son opened Hwe Yuan (where it all started) once again on East Broadway. The restaurant seems to be having some financial troubles, but I do hope to make it there soon to try the most original version of the dish to see how it compares to this homage. One way or another, Shorty Tang’s legacy and cold noodles will proudly live on in New York City. Price: $11
| TANGY NOODLE |
| 98 Eighth Avenue (between West 14th and West 15th Street), Chelsea (917) 261-4931 |
| tangynoodle.com |
