Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
Most accepted definitions for the word “gyro” refer to a sliced meat sandwich. The actual word comes from Greek (most food folks know it’s pronounced “yeero”) and only refers to something that spins or revolves. Meat doesn’t enter the original definition.
But you would be hard pressed to find a vegetarian gyro in Greece or on the streets of New York. Meat is the accepted filler when ordering the often mispronounced word.
Yet the spacious hugely popular all-day café Gertie leaves out the meat on their gyro. Their street style sandwich is stuffed with filling veggies. Aristotle is probably spinning (or gyro-ing) in his grave.
But if he just gave it a chance, he might be enlightened.
I’ve been to Gertie a few times and enjoy the vibe and the lightly healthy menu. Makes sense because the restaurant comes from the team behind Spanish tapas bar Huertas. Gertie is a lot more casual and bright whereas Huertas is more intimate and focused. But both are super fun places to hang out.
And the menu at Gertie is fun too. I enjoyed their patty melt and smoked bluefish sandwich. But the vegetarian gyro is the dish that left the strongest impression on me. 
Instead of lamb and chicken, they use spiced and rotisserie vegetables (mine featured some cabbage, mushrooms, and squash) that take on the flavors and crisp texture of street meat. It’s generously topped with the requisite white sauce and hot sauce along with onions, parsley, and more spices. The entire thing is wrapped in an irresistible homemade buttery pita and served with well-done chips and a pickle.
As good as those food cart gyros are in NYC, this actually rivals them (believe it or not). And it does stay true to the original definition from the Greek word gyro. Maybe Socrates was eating something akin to this in an Ancient all day café? Price: $12
| GERTIE |
| 357 Grand Street (at Marcy Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718) 636-0902 |
| gertie.nyc |
