Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
Emma’s Torch is one of the most important restaurants to open in a long time. And while it has gotten some press in the NY Times and elsewhere, I’m amazed that it’s not the most written about restaurant of the year.
It’s more than just a restaurant. It’s a culinary school and training center for refugees to ultimately be placed in jobs in the restaurant industry. So a lot of amazing things happen behind-the-scenes. But the restaurant side of it is where we get to enjoy the hard work and make a difference while eating. That’s something I can certainly get behind.
After a stint as a pop-up in Red Hook, Emma’s Torch (a reference to poet Emma Lazarus and the Statue of Liberty) now has a permanent spot in Carroll Gardens. They are currently only open for dinner or weekend brunch.
I was very excited to visit and do my part in helping this important program. But to be honest, I didn’t have huge expectations for the food. I guess I assume in a classroom, you never know which level student will be preparing your food. But the two dishes I tried were boldly flavored and as good as anything I’ve had in a full-scale restaurant.
The dishes rotate a bit but some represent the origin country of the current students. Black eyed pea hummus was quite unique and a bit earthier than the chickpea variety.
But the Tamarind Glazed wings were other level. They were nice and charred from the grill and easily pulled away from the bone. The tangy tamarind glaze provided a sweet sour balance that was tamed when dipped into the accompanying dill yogurt dipping sauce.
How have I never had wings like this before? I gladly decided to lick my fingers clean to help with the sticky mess. Tough job
I’m so excited that this wonderful restaurant (and program) exists. Sometimes in these tough political times you feel a bit helpless, but it’s always great to know that we can make a difference by eating delicious food. Price: $12
| EMMA’S TORCH |
| 345 Smith Street (at Carroll Street), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn (718) 243-1222 |
| emmastorch.org |
