Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
I’m not one to be taken in by hype. And in the New York food world there is so much of it. Sure, I’ll give the cronut or David Chang’s fried chicken sandwich a try. I like to try new things. But I will not stand in line for hours just to be able to taste it. And just because people are buzzing about it doesn’t always mean it’s good. It means the business has good publicity people.
Superority Burger is one such place that got a lot of hype from the food media when it finally opened a few weeks ago. The idea was the hard work of Brooks Headley who is the former pastry chef at Del Posto and created some brilliant desserts (like a vegetable-centric one called Sfera Di Caprino). He wanted to make a veggie burger that could stand up to all the over-hyped beef burgers out there. After some nice buzz and a pop-up, he finally opened his own shop. And the hype continues.
I wandered over to the tiny hole-in-the-wall early on a weekday evening and was pleased to find it mostly quiet. I didn’t have to wait in any absurd line to get a burger and a side. If there was a line, I probably would have just tried again another day.
The quinoa-based veggie burger was pretty good. I don’t think it tastes much like a beef burger, but it has a nice sear and is filling enough. The side on the other hand, is worth some hype.
For $4, instead of fries or onion rings, the chef whips up an incredibly satisfying crispy boat of more vegetables. Green vegetables. The burnt broccoli is charred beyond perfection and tossed with cashews, cilantro sprigs, and chiles, it has a depth of flavor and textures. The Thai-like spice is tamed a bit by a creamy eggplant purée offering expert balance to this scene-stealing side dish.
Perhaps writing this article is adding to the hype, but I think it’s worth visiting Superiority Burger if for nothing else than the burnt broccoli salad. Could broccoli be the next food obsession?
|430 East 9th Street (between First Avenue and Avenue A),