DISH OF THE WEEK: Oysters at THE REAL MOTHERSHUCKERS

I love, love raw oysters on the half-shell, but I would rarely pick a plate of them as a dish of the week here in NYC, because they don’t usually reflect much more than good sourcing and storage.

Sure, a chef has to be able to shuck them well and serve them quickly. There is no doubt a skill and talent to the experience. But a great kumamoto is good here or somewhere else in the world if the chef knows what he or she is doing.

Now, when entrepreneurs, like Ben “Moody” Harney, do something different like at the recently expanded The Real Mothershuckers, I have to think twice about writing them off. And it’s not just the punny name.

The latest incarnation of the business sits in a brand new food hall fittingly right on the pier across from the hottest tourist destinations the High Line and Little Island.

Here, Harney is not only getting in touch with New York’s oyster history and its ties to the African American experience, but he has created an oyster tasting that is different from something you can get at any raw bar in the city.

Looking at the toppings he is offering for his east and west coast oysters, I had the same dilemma I have when choosing an ice cream flavor. The good thing here is that only three flavors are offered and I can easily work my way through them more than once.

I hesitated a bit by the sauces labeled “Candy Apple” or “Sushi” worried there may be something gimmicky or overly sweet happening, but it was a hot day and some refreshing oysters sounded great.

I could tell with the Classic (parsley, shallots, cocktail and mignonette sauce) that things were going to go well. I appreciate instead of letting us do it ourselves, the oyster shuckers created the full oyster experience with the right amount of additional flavor while also letting the bivalve stand for itself.

Moving onto the Sushi was the perfect choice. Kissed with tangy ponzu, some fresh cucumbers, seaweed strips, and a hint of wasabi, this reminded me why I like Japanese food so much. Delicate and reminiscent of the ocean, it was fresh and delicious.

And then finally, the one I was most nervous about was the Candy Apple, which is not something I would ever mix with seafood. But, wow, the apple bites, horseradish, yuzu, hot sauce, and mirin worked beautifully together to create an experience I was not expecting. Bright, tart, spicy, and slightly sweet, this was a balanced bite that was brilliantly reminiscent of both carnival days and a day at sea.

All three of these are not just fresh oysters that are brought in from the best waters, but well-thought out combinations of flavors and ingredients. These raw oysters (from non NYC waters) deservedly earn a spot on my list of the best things of the year here in NYC. Price: $3-$4 per oyster