Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
The idea of creative sandwiches get thrown around a lot. Sure, the possibilities of what you can put between bread is almost limitless. But surprising fillings aren’t the only ways a sandwich can be creative.
Case in point is the exciting lunch I had recently at the new St. Marks shop Little Kirin. The pan-Asian sandwich shop served me a sandwich that had pretty standard ingredients inside, but the concept itself was ingenious. This was a sandwich version of a bowl of soup.
I was excited to see a friendly face at Little Kirin. Turns out I have worked with the owner, Brendan in the past. I used to bring tour groups to the excellent sandwich shop Bread & Spread in Dumbo. Brendan was the longtime manager there and clearly some of the sandwich expertise rubbed off.
His new solo venture right in the heart of the East Village is an sandwich spot. And if the other offerings (including a Crispy Fried Chicken sandwich and a Five Spice Pork sandwich) are as delicious and exciting as the Short Rib Brisket Pho Sandwich I tried, I expect there to be lines around the corner soon enough.
The sandwich alone, comprised of richly flavored short rib brisket that melted into the crisp springy bread, was fantastic. Its other ingredients included crispy shallots, cilantro, Thai basil, scallions, and a sweet smear of Hoisin sauce. It’s a great sandwich, but it gets even better when you order the practically obligatory side of broth.
The extra $3 charge turns this experience into both a play on a French Dip and a really cool “pho as sandwich” experience. Of course, all the flavors of the traditional Vietnamese soup are in the umami-laden bowl of broth where chunks of raw onion float awaiting for a dip of the meaty hoagie. I don’t need to explain the pleasures of a French dip here, but trust me, this works besutifully.
It’s a really cool creative concept. And makes me excited to see what the sandwich wizards of New York come up with next. Price: $15-$18
| LITTLE KIRIN |
| 81 St Marks Place (between First and Second Avenue), East Village (646) 398-9733 |
| eatlittlekirin.com |
