DISH OF THE WEEK: Wild Mushroom Larb Salad at PINTO GARDEN

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

Before I started working on these virtual programs about Thai cuisine in the United States, my  automatic response for where to get authentic Thai food in New York would have been Queens.

And while there is a wealth of authentic and regional Thai restaurants in that borough (especially in and around Elmhurst), this project has connected me to many serious Thai places in Manhattan that were right under my nose. And somehow I missed them.

Pinto Garden, which is appearing on this week’s program about Thai Ingredients is in a location that I used to frequent very often. It’s in Greenwich Village and right behind a notable library I used to bring my son to all the time. I’ve even eaten at Cafe Asean, which is the previous restaurant in this space, but I had not been to Pinto Garden. Until now.

I remember the beautiful garden set up from the previous tenant here, but I think it’s become more beautiful since Chef Yo took over and transformed it into Pinto Garden. The open air space is COVID safe and there are also some tables outside on West 10th Street.

The food here keeps with traditions but jumps from there with a focus on seasonal and local produce and vegetarian friendly options. The dishes get quite creative, like the sour and sweet corn salad (which varies seasonally), mussels in a creamy galangal sauce and kao soy with a giant eye-catching bone-in short rib,

We tried a few dishes here including an addicting basil chicken, the aforementioned corn salad, a rich and spicy pumpkin curry, and an excellent sticky rice dessert with mango. But as usual, I fell deep for the dish with wild mushrooms.

Chef Yo starts with a traditional larb salad concept but trades out the usual meat for meaty wild mushrooms (he currently uses king oyster and shiitake) but keeps the spicy lime dressing and crunchy bites of roasted rice, lemongrass, shallots, and mint. It’s every bit as herbal, spicy, and satisfying as larb should be, but there is no guilt involved since it is completely vegan.

This incredibly, refined Thai restaurant is not in Queens, as you might have guessed by its bold flavors, but right in the heart of Manhattan. I only wish I had known about it sooner.  Price: $16