Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
If someone were to try to sell me on a salmon cake, I would imagine it would be somewhat similar to a crab cake, but of course using salmon in place of crab. I never would have guessed it would be closer to a piece of breakfast cake.
That surprising twist is what convinced me I needed to order a second piece of pastry one morning. I was actually at Burrow showing the bakery off to one of the tour guests on the Dumbo tour I’ve started leading (use code UANYC1 for 10% off).
Burrow is one of the most under-the-radar bakeries in the entire city, partly because it is hidden inside the lobby of an office building in Dumbo. There is literally no indication outside the building hinting that you would be allowed to walk in and explore this lobby. But you should.
In addition to this amazing Japanese bakery, there is also a cool historical engraving on the floor letting you know this used to be the home of Grand Union Tea Company (which later became Grand Union grocery store).
Sorry for my tour guide tangent, let’s get back to that salmon cake.
Aside from the pink chunks of fish sticking out, this slice of cake looks like it could be in the world of a zucchini or banana bread. You know, the usual suspects at a Brooklyn coffee shop.
The chef and owner Awake Kurokawa clearly does not want to do what everyone else does. So this surprising savory option features a cornbread-like base and the addition of smoked salmon, dill, and some cheese (I believe it is gruyere). I found it incredibly moist with a nice browned exterior and full of familiar (yet unexpected) flavor combinations. It’s an incredible invention that works as a welcomed alternative to the usual sweet morning pastries.
So next time someone offers you a salmon cake, don’t make any assumptions.
| BURROW |
| 68 Jay Street (between Front and Water Street), Dumbo, Brooklyn |
| burrow.nyc |
