Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
There was a time when I was doing video versions of these Dishes of the Week. And maybe one day I’ll go back to it again. But for this entry, I’m somewhat relieved that you don’t have to hear me butcher the restaurant name Çka Ka Qëllu.
The Albanian phrase is difficult to translate (from what I understand) but it is a welcoming phrase of hospitality. Please just don’t ask me to attempt to pronounce it.
It’s located just outside the famous Arthur Avenue Retail Market where Italian food reigns supreme. But what most locals know is that this neighborhood of Belmont is today as Albanian as it is Italian.
When I grow tired of eggplant rollatini and spaghetti ala vongole, I have sometimes ventured to try some of the Albanian food in the neighborhood. And it has been a delicious mess of meaty gutbombs.
I can’t say the two dishes I ordered here were light but they were something a bit different. The crepe-like Fli was a savory layered cake that was pleasantly sticky and rib-sticking. It was served with a pickled tomato and a chunk of tangy cheese.
Similarly tangy and bready were the Mantia, which are Albania veal dumplings. You can get them plain or blanketed with a dramatic yogurt and garlic sauce. These are served in the classic Tava clay dish and are worth the extra $2.
Peppery ground veal and onions are wrapped in a phyllo dough (although you can’t really see that underneath the creamy white sauce). Together they are a hearty flavor bomb that are great for a warming addition to any meal.
Çka Ka Qëllu is a unique and worthy alternative to the excellent Italian food found up and down these streets. I can tell you how to get there, but just don’t ask me to say the name. Price: $8
| ÇKA KA QËLLU |
| 2321 Hughes Avenue (between Crescent and East 186th Street), Belmont, Bronx (718) 933-6194 |
| çkakaqellu.com |
