Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
As I talked to the friendly guy behind the counter at Golda (perhaps the owner of this breezy Bed-Stuy café), he asked if I lived in the neighborhood. When I told him that I lived quite a bit away. I think he was pretty surprised and confused as to why I came all this way to eat an egg sandwich at a new local joint.
But that’s what I do. I think I may be one of the few that fully take advantage of the city and try to become a local everywhere.
And that includes this gentrifying part of Bedford-Stuyvesant. The last time I was out here things looked very different. There was certainly not a brunch-friendly spot with cold brewed coffee.
Golda opened just a few months ago by half the team behind the now closed Tilda, which had a similar concept. But here the owner is bringing more of his Middle Eastern heritage to the mix. So these are not your usual pastries and breakfast sandwich. How about a chocolate halvah brownie??
I thought I knew what the smoked trout sandwich was going to look like, but I was completely wrong. I was expecting the usual cold mayo-heavy trout salad with bits of eggs and raisins mixed in. Wrong. It was mostly an egg sandwich – a very plump fluffy molded egg served hot topped with a generous portion of chunky and smoky pink trout salad and orbs of trout caviar.
The most surprising component was a currant pinenut relish that added a sweet texture and brought out even more flavors. That excellent toasted seeded bun didn’t hurt things either.
Most people would say Golda is not worth traveling long distances for. Sure, they make great sandwiches, incredible pastries, and really good coffee. But if you live in New York, odds are there is a place like this close to you. But I’d say you’d miss out on the little touches that make this place (and the surrounding changing neighborhood) unique from all the rest. Price: $15
GOLDA |
504 Franklin Avenue (between Hancock and Fulton Street) Bedford-Stuyvesant (718) 484-7065 |
goldakitchen.com |