DISH OF THE WEEK in Funchal, Madeira, Portugal: Bacalhau à Marialvas at RESTAURANTE LONDRES

The Place: After a few days in Lisbon, we headed to the island of Madeira and enjoyed some more days exploring the city of Funchal. I was surprised at how alive and local this city was during the weekday. Obviously much smaller than Lisbon, but still bustling and lively on a smaller scale. Things did quiet down in the evening and most nights it seemed we were strolling the streets with only other tourists. Things felt a bit different at Restaurante Londres.

We had such a great time during our dinner here that we returned a few days later. I’ve heard people say they do that on vacation but I have never (repeat never) returned to the same restaurant twice in the same visit. That’s how special Londres was.

And it wasn’t even anything super special – it just felt authentic. Local families shared warm greetings with the long-time staff while a few lucky tourists (like us) wandered into a slice of real life.

The vibe felt a bit like an American diner – if the American diner served Madeiran cuisine and had a genuine level of care and comfort.

The Dish: The food was great too – we tried everything from the chewy buttery limpets to incredible local ham with melon. But I got one step closer in my unofficial quest to try every Portuguese codfish recipe.

Bachalhau is probably the most important food ingredient in Portuguese cuisine. The salted and dehydrated fish is so iconic that the story goes there are 365 different recipes for rehydrating and cooking it. One for every day of the year.

I’ve tried a handful, but never Bacalhau à Marialvas. I didn’t know what I was getting myself into when I ordered this, but I was delighted. The flaky, meaty, chewy codfish soaked up the flavor of a sweet-vinegar sauce, along with plenty of potatoes, tomatoes, and onions. It was rustic and homey with hints of honey and wine. It fit perfectly with the no-nonsense ambiance of our favorite restaurant in Funchal.