DISH OF THE WEEK

DISH OF THE WEEK in New York: Knafeh at AL-SHAM SWEETS AND PASTRIES

The Place: I had to leave Astoria and come back before I could discover the wonder of Al-Sham Sweets. After moving away from Astoria for over a decade, I felt like the prodigal son returned home. I’m now happily leading tours of the neighborhood for Nice Guy Tours. And in training for it, I learned about many places I didn’t even know existed.

The most impressive of my new discoveries is a tiny little piece of heaven called Al-Sham Sweets & Pastries that is so easy to miss – is that my excuse? In fairness, this Middle Eastern bakery didn’t open until 2009, well after I moved out of the neighborhood.

The display cases here are presided over by the friendliest of employees and reveal mouthwatering bits of honey-drenched dough, like baklava and cookies and shredded wheat bites stuffed with chocolate and pistachio cream. You really can’t go wrong.

The Dish: In the back corner, however, is the thing that many people travel far and wide for. The Knafeh will change your world. I watch tour attendees taste this and not know what to think, but then keep eating. This traditionally royal pastry is comprised of a layer of kadayif (shredded wheat) that has been soaked in a special sugar syrup, along with pistachios and decadent stretchy cheese (not so dissimilar to mozzarella). You might be thinking “huh?” The combination of cheese, crunchy dough, honey-like sweetness, and nutty crunchy pistachios is a true revelation.

I am not very well-versed on knafeh, but I hear this is the best in Queens if not the entire city. Based on the magic that happens with each bite, I have to believe that is true.

AL-SHAM SWEETS & PASTRIES
24-39 Steinway Street (between 25th Avenue and Astoria Boulevard),
Astoria, Queens
(718) 777-0876
papadamourny.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.

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