THE PLACE: Not one of the smash burger places that gets all the hype in NYC, Lovely’s Old Fashioned has been sitting under-the-radar in Hell’s Kitchen for the last year or so. The old-fashioned name and feel, along with a lack of tables (only a lunch counter overlooking the griddle), truly gives a sense that this place has been here since the Jets and Sharks fictitiously roamed these streets in the 1950’s. It was also a treat to realize the owner was the one actually flipping the burgers. I expected the Fonz to bust in at any moment.
THE MENU: Burgers, dogs, and fries are what you would expect at a place like this. Considering they have only been open in the neighborhood since 2023, you’d also expect the prices to be a sticker shock. Yet amazingly, nothing on the menu is over $12. The burgers look great and I need to come back to indulge, but I ordered what most people probably avoid on their first visit here.
THE DISH: The one vegetarian sandwich on the menu does not come close to being considered healthy food, but the label may scare the burger snobs off. That would be a shame because the cheekily named Mushrooben is fantastic. As you might guess, this is a take on a Reuben without the beef. Instead meaty crisp mushrooms are appropriately seasoned with the expected, topped with caramelized onions, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing and grilled with lots of Swiss cheese. It’s all held together by two buttery slices of marble rye. It’s as rich, hearty, and flavorful as anything you’d get an actual 1950’s luncheonette. Perhaps this is one way to both keep and break your New Year’s resolutions (eat less meat, but kill your diet). Price: $9.75
| LOVELY’S OLD FASHIONED |
| 642 Ninth Avenue (between West 45th and West 46th Street), Hell’s Kitchen (646) 918-6019 |
| lovelysoldfashioned.com |
