Somehow along the way, mushrooms became my absolute favorite food. Their earthy woodsy umami flavors won me over and at this point, if a restaurant has fungi on the menu, I’m ordering it.
But it becomes much more difficult for me when everything on the menu is a mushroom. That is both the curse and the excitement of Third Kingdom, a vegan restaurant owned by Ravi DeRossi who has glamorized and innovated vegan food the way he did with cocktails a few decades ago.
I’ve been dying to come to Third Kingdom and I knew narrowing their mushroom options to just one thing for myself to order would be a challenge. I was dining along, so do I order the eye catching King Royal Trumpet plated like a dish straight out of Super Mario Brothers or the Beech Mushrooms dressed up as mac and cheese or Lion’s Mane Mushrooms stuffed inside dumplings?
Well, since I was taking myself out for a special occasion (mushroom eating), I thought I may as well go all in and order the “steak” of mushrooms: the Blue Oyster.
These meaty ‘shrooms were sweated down to a perfect bite and nicely charred on the exterior and garnished with a rustic peppercorn sauce- just like a good piece of steak. A luscious celery root patty stood in place of fried potatoes and were balanced by sweet fennel, charred cipollini onions, and just to keep the umami party going – a button mushroom puree.
I felt like I was indulging in a piece of meat but felt much better about myself knowing this was just my favorite healthy food at its best. I chose right, but need to come back to choose again and again. Price: $29
| THIRD KINGDOM |
| 21 East 7th Street (between Third and Second Avenue), East Village (646) 943-4548 |
| thirdkingdomnyc.com |
