DISH OF THE WEEK in New York: Pearl Noodle at TENGRI TAGH UYGHUR CUISINE

Perhaps Central Asian food is the next big thing?

After Farida, Tengri Tagh is the second restaurant from this region in Manhattan that I’m showcasing this year. This food has been prevalent in parts of Queens and deep in southern Brooklyn, but the fact that you can now find it in both major business districts of the city, is very very exciting.

I’ve been trying to taste the Uyghur cuisine at this little nook near Penn Station since they opened in 2022, but I almost always find myself here on the day they are closed: Fridays. Thankfully, this time was not a Friday!

Uyghur cuisine, representing a Muslim ethnic group that resides in Xinjiang province of China, is similar to Uzbeki and Kazakh cuisine. Lots of meats, noodles, and savory pies.

While I have tried lots of the grilled meats and the stews, I was most intrigued by a dish called Pearl Noodle. Having no idea what to expect, I was pretty surprised by the short plump little pasta nubs, that looked more like corn kernels than traditional noodles, hiding among a sea of colors and flavors.

This is often mixed with cumin lamb, which was tempting, but I stuck with the vegetarian version which was filling and satisfying enough.

As I took a spoonful of the carbs that soaked up the spiced tomato sauce and array of vegetables, I got transported to my childhood eating Chef Boyardee meals. This was reminiscent of that, but so much better. Rustic and hearty, the flavors were peppery, spicy and herbal, with a surprising hint of something in the world of lemongrass.

I can see how spiced meat might add something nice to this dish, but I thought it was so interesting and surprising even without that.

Man, I wish I had eaten something like this on those childhood nights when dinner was an afterthought. And maybe if Uyghur cuisine catches on in this country, kids will learn to love pearl noodle instead of that horrific Chef Boyardee. Price: $14.95 (vegetarian)/$17.95 (with meat)