Every once in a while, the trendy food halls of this city host an exciting new vendor that makes braving the tourist and business lunch crowds worth it.
That was the case with Bark Barbecue when they opened their first permanent location at the Time Out Market in the crowded Empire Stores on the Dumbo waterfront.
Chef and owner Ruben Santana started his Dominican-Texas barbecue business as a series of pop-ups in Queens. He earned quite a reputation so by the time he opened in Brooklyn, everybody was adequately hungry.
Most of the menu looks like your typical Texas barbecue joint (brisket, ribs, and pulled pork), but there are hidden Dominican gems like longaniza sausage, chicharron, and some interesting sandwiches.
Of course, I was not looking for the usual fare, so I flipped a coin between two sandwiches: the Tres Golpes (based off of the famous Dominican breakfast) or the Chicharron & Brisket. Regulars in line urged me to get the latter. The cutter agreed.
This was a perfect example of the fusion of flavors, with a nice smoky meaty brisket studded with crunchy salty bites of the chicharron.
Chicharron is pork crackling or fried pork skin. It is a wonderful surprise that has a nice texture contrast to the soft, fluffy potato roll.
To enhance the flavor of the two meats, pickled red onions cut the richness and a Dominican-barbecue sauce with molasses and secret spices add more sweet, spicy, umami flavors.
Bark Barbecue is a little hidden on the fifth floor of the market, so it’s the kind of place that those in the know find, but the tourists may be stuck gorging themselves on over-hyped pancakes or overpriced burgers. Price: $18
| BARK BARBECUE |
| 55 Water Street (between Dock and Main Street), Inside Time Out Market Dumbo, Brooklyn (609) 316-0819 |
| facebook.com/BarkBarbecue/ |
