Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
I recently visited family in North Carolina and had a very nice time. As always, I went looking for the best food and drink. But I am quite surprised that the taste I most remembered from this trip was not a plate of barbecue or biscuits. But rather a perfectly balanced cocktail at a high-end restaurant.
Lantern is legendary in the food world in the Triangle area. Chef Andrea Reusing, a James Beard Award-winning chef, creates dishes that combine classic Asian flavors and traditions with the local ingredients of this area of North Carolina.
We had a really excellent meal including a unique take on Indian chaat, an umami-laced Japanese steak, and a giant pork rib cooked with lemongrass and on a plate of Thai papaya salad.
But the two things I remember most were actually the book ends of the meal.
We almost didn’t get dessert but I’m so glad we relented to the Warm Persimmon Pudding which brought all the flavors of the south together with a sweet fruit that is native to both this region and parts of Asia.
On the other end of the meal, the first sip was the most exciting for me.
I am very picky with cocktails (although I love them) because I often find them to be out of balance and either too sweet or too acidic. The excellent server assured me this little number walked the perfect line.
The Todo Bien was indeed very good. The base of mezcal provided a lovely smokiness that married well with bittersweet Aperol, bracing ginger, and a kiss of lemon. It was a simple cocktail that was expertly crafted. It started the night off really well.
And perhaps it’s my age, but this smoky libation pleased me far more than the gutbomb fried chicken biscuits I was sampling later in the week. Price: $13
| LANTERN |
| 423 West Franklin Avenue (between South Roberson and Kenan Street), Chapel Hill, North Carolina (919) 969-8846 |
| lanternrestaurant.com |
