TOP TEN DISHES 2022: Numbers 5-1

I’m counting down the 10 best dishes I tasted in 2022…

Ever since the great pandemic of two years ago (the one that is, yes, technically still raging), I am very grateful for another year immersing myself in the food of NYC. Yes, lots has changed. I’m not able to as freely get to the far reaches of the outer boroughs or dine at the finest dining establishments, but I am still exploring in the neighborhoods I frequent at the price point that I can afford.

And I’ve had some incredible dishes that remind me just how much I miss the full breadth of the NYC dining scene. Here I present my annual Top Ten.

NUMBER 5: BREAKFAST BURRITO at URSULA

All of the James Beard Award nominated Ursula’s burritos feature some form of the New Mexico hatch chiles (either green or red), eggs,  cheese (vegan is available), protein, and the surprising addition of a hash brown.

The red chile-filled burrito was pretty large and had been nicely toasted on the outside so that it almost resembled a quesadilla. Impressive. Even more impressive was the amount of filling that took up the entire volume of the burrito. There were no lonely empty bites here.

The chorizo was creamy and spiced well, the eggs were fluffy, the cheddar added a nice rich sharpness, the chiles gave it a mellow burn, and the hash browns provided texture to the entire masterpiece.

And each bite was truly fantastic. I didn’t plan to eat the entire thing but before I knew it, it was gone. Price: $11

NUMBER 4: MASHED POTATOES WITH DUCK HEART GRAVY at PECKING HOUSE 

While their signature chili was mighty tasty, the real reason to wait in line at Pecking House’s brick and mortar location is for the side portion of mashed potatoes. No joke!

I’m not even a huge fan of mashed potatoes with gravy – I would take French fries or au gratin any day. But this side dish was life changing, Truly.

The fluffy potatoes themselves were irresistibly buttery and smooth, yet the addition of the duck heart gravy was revelatory. The meaty bites of duck heart was rich and luxurious (better than any bacon bits) adding a perfect texture to the rich side dish. Price: $7 (or part of $18-$27 combo meal)

NUMBER 3: L’IL ROWDY at ROWDY ROOSTER

We have lots of international fried chicken in NYC now, (including the above mentioned Chinese-influenced Pecking House), but the best, for me, was from Rowdy Rooster, selling boneless and bone-in Indian fried chicken in a range of five spice levels.

The Li’l Rowdy is a genius sandwich of two boneless thighs sandwiched between a buttery biscuit-like pao. It’s also slathered with irresistible mint chutney, cooling scallion yogurt, and pickled onion.

The juicy thigh meat was injected with a dizzying array of spices and peppers (I chose the second from the top Rogue). I have no idea what goes into it but it’s spicy and incredibly satisfying. Especially when paired with the buttery bun and the contrasting sauces. Price: $7

NUMBER 2: BAKED ALASKA at GAGE & TOLLNER

Baked Alaska is not something you find on menus very often any longer. And some may not even know what it is.

It was not invented in the 49th state (as the name implies) but rather right here in New York at the famous Delmonico’s Restaurant. For whatever reason, Baked Alaska fell out of popularity. But if everybody could taste the one being served at Gage & Tollner, it would quickly become much more popular than even the chocolate chip cookie.

This plate was decadent, dusted with chocolate crumbles followed by a mysterious sphere of what looks and tastes like toasted whipped cream. In actuality, this white fluff is the most intense and delicious meringue (whipped egg whites) that I have ever tasted. Somehow it was ethereally light and fluffy but had the body and flavor of actual whipped cream. I really don’t understand this black magic.

Inside the beautiful composition were three layers of homemade ice cream: fresh mint, dark chocolate, and amarena cherry. This was a much more perfect and refined combination than the typical Neapolitan (vanilla, chocolate, strawberry). Price: $24 (for two)

NUMBER 1: UNAGI EGGPLANT NIGIRI at PLANTA QUEEN

I’m not one to normally include a hip pan-Asian import that resembles one you’d find at a suburban shopping mall on my lists. But I love innovative, magical food that also tastes good. And the two bites I had at Planta Queen were the most surprising of the year.

Despite the typical looking menu, there is real creativity happening here. No tofu or magic meat, but rather real fruits and vegetables on the completely vegan menu.

I’ve encountered some of these vegetable substitutions before, but I have never seen anyone attempt to create eel in the plant world. So the unagi eggplant nigiri really called my name.

I was truly blown away by how much the nigiri sushi looked, smelled, and tasted like barbecued eel. Meaty eggplant chunks are sliced opened, charred, and drizzled with a sweet brown sauce that is called unagi sauce, but must contain some sort of black magic. Price: $6.25