DISH OF THE WEEK

DISH OF THE WEEK: Salt & Pepper Young Coconut at WAU

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

I am always excited by dishes that make you think you’re getting one thing but then when you taste it or learn more about it, you find out you’re getting something else entirely.

Wau is a new hip Malaysian restaurant on the Upper West Side that has many enticing traditional curries and noodle dishes on the menu. But they are also doing a few unexpected riffs, most notably the vegan version of salt and pepper calamari.

I first learned about this on Eater, but had already decided Wau was a place I needed to visit. And truthfully, even if I hadn’t read about the Salt & Pepper Coconut, I may have been intrigued enough to choose it myself. How often do you get to order a plate of coconut?

This vegan dish is listed on the menu right below its calamari counterpoint. I wish I had the finances (and indigestion pills) to try both dishes in one sitting. I could have guessed how the Salt & Pepper Calamari, battered, spiced, and deep fried would have tasted, The coconut, however, was a revelation.

Large chunks of young coconut are prepared the exact same way with a very light and practically greaseless tempura batter.

The flavor is all there and you might be able to close your eyes and convince yourself you were eating squid. Texture-wise, it’s a bit softer and less rubbery than the cephalopod. Sweet coconut flavors aren’t overly present. If the coconut adds any additional flavor, it’s very subtle.

But the flavor you would expect from the menu’s seafood counterpart is there, down to the five spice, peppers, and garlic. And just like with fried calamari, you’re presented a spicy creamy sambal sauce for dipping.

It’s a pretty exciting plate of food that is satisfying and surprising. And truthfully, that’s what I was looking for. Price: $16

WAU
434 Amsterdam Avenue (at West 81st Street),
Upper West Side
(917) 261-5926
waunyc.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.