Beer

BREWERY REVIEW: Torch & Crown Brewing Company

My search for the best beer in New York continues….

It has been a long time since I’ve actually been to a brewery.

Through the pandemic, I’ve managed to stay on top of many of the local breweries through their beer in cans. But I have not consumed beer at the source on draft in a very long time.

So I was so excited to finally make it to Torch & Crown Brewing Company, which is the first commercial brewery to open in Manhattan in a very long time.

They had been on my radar before COVID when they were only making beer to consume in cans or at other bars. The brewery itself didn’t actually open until well into the madness.

I was very impressed when I arrived recently on a weekend afternoon when it is obvious that Manhattan is not really empty and crime-ridden as the media has portrayed it of late. All of Lower Manhattan was bustling and it seemed like at some point everybody ended up at this brewery.

The cavernous space felt much more like a sports bar/restaurant in the suburbs than an urban brewery. It had a very generic, sterile vibe (which is a good thing for the cleanliness of a brewery but not for atmosphere).

Despite the large crowds, I managed to secure a seat outside.

But to get to that table, I had a number of run-ins with the brewery staff that already left a bad taste in my mouth. I was excited to get a beer in my hand to wash it away.

Most of the things I encountered were managerial and only slight annoyances. First off, I checked out the retail shop to see which beers they were selling by the can. They had a large selection and a nice display of the can art.

I figured what my answer would be, but I asked if they sold individual cans or variety four packs. The answer was no and no. Not too surprising, but I knew many nearby beer shops that did sell these beers solo so I was not going to be taking home any merchandise from the source, sadly.

My next issue happened at the hostess stand where they were fielding customers both inside the large restaurant (with lots of sports on the televisions) and the two outdoor spaces (a covered garden and some picnic tables out front).

After looking through the reservations, she told me she could get me a table. She then asked for my phone number which I am not apt to easily give out. I asked her why and she said she needed it so they could put me in their system. Why? I just wanted a beer. I declined the phone number and she told me they couldn’t seat me.

I almost flew into a rage. What happened in this post COVID world where I can’t just go into a bar and get a beer without giving over all my personal info? The whole ordeal struck me as strange and intrusive. But I wanted to try their beer so I gave a fake number and headed out to my table.

Then the hostess tried to seat me next to a party enjoying their beers. In the old days, I’d have no problem at a communal table – I’d even welcome it, but there is still a pandemic happening (despite what the maskless crowd inside and out thinks) and I have a young son who is not vaccinated. I am not completely throwing caution to the wind. Plus there were two completely empty tables next to this one.

She gave me a bit of an attitude but ultimately sat me at an empty table but warned me that there were reservations and I would be joined soon. I figured I would cross that bridge when I got there.

Whew! So much trouble already.

But now I was sitting at a table and had the impressive beer menu in front of me. The next disappointment came when I asked if a flight or samplers were available. Another big fat no (although the waitress was very nice).

I ultimately decided on their well-publicized Rainbows Everywhere, a Hazy IPA that was brewed specially for pride week and proceeds are donated to LGBTQ+ causes.

Despite the promise of rainbows, the beer was solidly opaque with a beautiful golden peach hue and a tight head. It gives off a juicy delicious appearance.

The nose backed that up with a big bouquet of tropical fruit, pepper, and a hint of pine. It smelled scrumptious.

And finally upon sipping it, I discovered the happy colorful rainbows. It was fantastic – balanced with sweet peaches, tart passionfruit, and a smooth creamy hoppy finish. It was very drinkable and served at the right temperature. A huge home run.

Although I could not work my way through their repertoire on site via a sampler, I had already tested a few of their beers at home over the previous weeks. And I have to say, they make really excellent beer.

They have a signature IPA that is featured on many of the staff’s T-shirts and is readily available at local beer shops. It’s called Almost Famous and it was the first beer this brewery brewed.

There are similarities to the Rainbows Everywhere, but it’s distinct. Juicy pink grapefruit is more present on the nose and the golden beer has just a slight haze this time. There are also some mango and peach notes with a pleasant bitterness reminiscent of grapefruit juice. It’s another really delicious concoction and for IPA and non-IPA lovers alike.

Outside of the IPA world, I also tried their Flying Blind, which is a sour ale with lots of dark fruits and lactose.

It poured a purplish red color with a low amount of effervescence, but a decent size creamy head. It’s not terribly tart with just a hint of sourness and the milk sugar brings out a good deal of sweetness. Despite the sugar, it’s still quite restrained relying more on the blueberry and strawberry flavor. It’s fruit-forward and juicy with just a hint of tartness at the end. Like a good piece of pie.

I also managed to secure another of their sours. Melting Pot is evidently a tribute to a former employee who moved back to Ireland. It’s comprised of pomegranates, tart cherry, and cara cara orange. In all honesty, it sounded like something I wasn’t going to love. I thought it was going to be too dark and tart for my personal liking.

But once again, they surprised me with a balanced very pleasant beer. It poured a lot lighter than the Flying Blind with a light ruby color and smells of fruit and grains. There was no doubt this was a beer as opposed to a fruit drink.

The fruit was actually a bit muted with subtle hints of citrus and cherries. The pomegranate was sweeter and not cloyingly sweet and sour like Pom juice can be. The grains and lactose also played a nice part in mellowing it all out and making it super crushable.

I must admit I was annoyed by little things at Torch & Crown. But I am overwhelmed by their excellent beer. On one hand, I am very happy we have a thriving commercial brewery in Manhattan once again, but since I am an old curmudgeon, I’ll happily just drink their beers at home.

Is Torch & Crown Brewing Company the best brewery in NY? They are making some of the best beer in the city, but the vibe at the brewery itself is not really my speed, so that brings them down to a still respectable  out of 10.

Is Torch & Crown Brewing Company’s Rainbows Everywhere the best beer in NY? It’s a joy-inducing hazy IPA that is balanced, smooth, and impossibly delicious. So 10 out of 10, also since it is for a good cause.

Is Torch & Crown Brewing Company’s Almost Famous the best beer in NY? It gets a out of 10 for being one of those juicy IPAs that could be considered a gateway for those who think they don’t like IPA’s.

Is Torch & Crown Brewing Company’s Flying Blind the best beer in NY? It is a very enjoyable sour featuring lots of juicy berries with a sweet creamy tartness to round it out. 8 out of 10.

Is Torch & Crown Brewing Company’s Melting Pot the best beer in NY? Another juicy but balanced sour that tames the dark tart fruits with fresh grains and smooth lactose. 8 out of 10.

TORCH & BREWING COMPANY
12 Vandam Street (between Varick and Sixth Avenue),
Soho
(212) 228-7005
torchandcrown.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He also writes food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City.