DISH OF THE WEEK

DISH OF THE WEEK: Savory Tofu Pudding at FONG ON

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

Poor Chinatown. It has been a struggle for the vibrant neighborhood and its businesses. Well before the pandemic, developers and national chains had pushed in and while the immigrant community mostly held on, locals wondered for how long.

Then when news of the novel coronavirus in Wuhan hit the world, Chinatown got unfairly avoided. I remember giving tours during that time and the businesses in Chinatown were begging for business – even though no known cases had appeared in New York.

And most recently, due to health concerns and mandated closures, the businesses have continued to struggle.

So when I find myself in Manhattan now, I do my best to come and support the businesses. And I’m pleased when I do see some thriving.

One of those businesses that has been through a lot is Fong On.

In 2017, the 80 year old (plus) business threw in the towel due to many of the expected circumstances. But the summer of 2019 was exciting because one of the original owner’s grandsons decided to bring the business back.

They are mostly known for their fresh housemade tofu. I had heard about them and their bean curd but never had a chance to visit. Amazingly, I finally found the opportunity during a pandemic.

Their new digs are bright and modern with a lone standing table outside. Mostly, this is a spot for to-go orders (even before the pandemic), which I watched many people take advantage of.

 

I tried both their signature savory tofu pudding and one of their rice cakes (which I think I will write about in a later post).

The savory tofu pudding was the perfect antidote to a cold grim day. It’s topped with everything you can think of and all the textures and flavors I had been missing from my visits to Chinatown in the olden days.

Completely covering the tofu was a generous helping of the following: dried shrimp, pickled radishes, fried shallots, scallions, sesame oil, and chili sauce. The obvious modus operandi  here was to mix everything up and allow it to mingle with the creamy tofu.

And indeed it mingled beautifully. The tofu was so soft and delicate and the perfect vessel for the bold, spicy, nutty, funky flavors and crunchy textures the toppings provided.

I’m so happy that this classic Chinatown institution is back. And I’m very pleased to hear they are still hanging on. Let’s make sure it stays that way. Price: $6.50 (small) /$7.50 (large)

FONG ON
81 Divison Street (between Eldridge and Pike Street),
Chinatown
(917) 261-7222
facebook.com/fongon1933/

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.