Falafel

DISH OF THE WEEK: Ta’ameya at ZÖÖBA

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

SADLY, ZÖÖBA IS NOW CLOSED.

When is a falafel not a falafel? When it’s a ta’ameya.

Late last year an Egyptian fast food chain opened in Nolita, in the space of a former favorite neighborhood falafel spot, introducing the city to ta’ameya.

The main difference between the two vegan fritters is that falafel is traditionally made with chickpeas and ta’ameya is made with fava beans. Otherwise, they are long lost twins.

Nobody that I knew of was making ta’ameya at least not by name. I have encountered some falafel makers using fava beans in their recipe, but none that I am aware that fully left out the chickpeas.

I actually got to eat at Zööba three times before the pandemic hit. It’s very close to where I used to end my Tenements tour and since I tried to eat healthy and vegetarian every so often, I wanted to check it out.

It took me three times before I fully fell in love with it. It was on the final visit that I ordered the ta’ameya on its own and not as a sandwich filler. And that’s how I got to appreciate them for what they are.

In terms of flavor, they are quite similar to falafel but perhaps a bit more mild. I’ve met people that don’t like the flavor of falafel (crazy people), but this might be more their speed.

They also might be a little less crunchy but still with lots of textures from the crisp exterior and the crust of seeds. In addition to sesame seeds, I believe I burst open a few aromatic coriander seeds.

Another fun and uniquely delicious aspect to these are the dipping sauces. Not to be complacent with just tahini and hot sauce, Zööba offers up a harissa raisin sauce (sweet and spicy) and a bright tangy hibiscus beet-root number.

I didn’t make my way through the entire menu. I was hoping to do that but then, of course, we all got quarantined.  Zööba is still doing take out and delivery so those who are nearby can try a variety of sandwiches stuffed with these fritters along with some other interesting dishes like a beef patty called Hawawashi and a Beef Liver Sandwich.

Over the ages, there has been somewhat of a disagreement over which nation can claim the original falafel. I’m not going to get into that disagreement, but I think everyone knows that Ta’ameya are uniquely Egyptian. And now you know. Price: $4.50 (for five), $7.75 (sandwich)

ZÖÖBA
100 Kenmare Street (at Cleveland Place),
Nolita
(646) 328-9144
zoobaeats.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.