Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
Chicken breast, chicken thigh, chicken wings. These are what most Americans are used to eating when it comes to that all-too-familiar poultry. But most Americans have no idea about the best part of the chicken. The chicken oyster.
I had the best prepared chicken oyster at a very fancy and somewhat lesser known New York restaurant called Torishin. It’s been quietly churning out yakitori omakase since 2007 and in the current Hell’s Kitchen space since 2015.
Things on skewers are the specialty of the house with a focus on chicken.
I was brought here for a special meal and went with the $64 10-piece skewer set which also came with some pickles and daikon. It is an expensive meal and unless you sit at the bar and order a la carte, most likely reserved for a special occasion.
We were sent all sorts of chicken parts from the gizzard to the breast to the knee gristle. We also really enjoyed their mastery with grilling vegetables like zucchini and potato.
The chicken oyste is something that might show up on your table, but it is also possible to put in a request for this. You must do this!
Chicken oysters are the firm meaty parts below the thigh hidden near the spine. There are only two small nuggets on each chicken and they are highly prized, but unfortunately often overlooked.
At Torishin, they come perfectly grilled and just slightly seasoned. The skin pops easily and reveals tender and juicy flesh. Flavorwise they fall somewhere between dark and white meat. They have the thickness of white meat but the moist meaty flavor of dark meat. I can also strangely compare them to bacon wrapped scallops. They are that luscious.
The French word for these is Sot-L’y-Laisse which fittingly translates to “a fool leaves it.” Unfortunately, many of us have been foolish for too long. It’s time to not overlook the best part of the chicken. Price: Available as part of $64 Omakase
| TORISHIN |
| 362 West 53rd Street (between Eighth and Ninth Avenue), Hell’s Kitchen (212) 7557-0108 |
| torishinny.com |
