Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
A knish is an iconic New York Jewish food that is a mound of mashed potatoes wrapped in dough. They’re delicious. So I understand the concept of potato wrapped in dough. I”d also happily gobble up potato stuffed pierogies or Indian samosas stuffed with potato.
Yet I was still uncertain when the waitress convinced me to order a potato filled pasta at fancy modern Italian restaurant Misi.
This is owned by chef Missy Robbins who was one of the hottest chef in Manhattan a decade or so ago thanks to A Voce and has since staged quite a comeback out in Brooklyn with Lilia and now Misi.
Pasta and vegetables are the two main focuses of the menu here. So you see, I wasn’t so crazy for ordering the potato cappelletti. Potato is a vegetable, right?
I also tried one of her proper vegetable dishes, which were long green Runner Beans grilled and blistered until their sweetness was revealed while keeping the crisp texture in tact. They were swimming in garlic and oil with a hint of chilies. Super simple and incredibly satisfying.
This gave me high hopes for the pasta. I believe this iteration of Cappelletti is new to the menu. It didn’t get all the press when Misi first opened like the Linguini and the Strangozzi did.
But the critics need to come back and try something new. Because these pockets of potato are incredible.
The homemade pasta purses are stuffed with creamy smooth potato purée. Who needs cheese when these tubers are so luscious?
For crunch and deep flavors, Robbins adds bits of salty fatty speck and firm shavings of horseradish which were peppery but mild.
It’s both light and decadent, which is what I hope for when I am eating carbs wrapped in carbs. Price: $24
| MISI |
| 329 Kent Avenue (at South 4th Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn (347) 566-3262 |
| misinewyork.com |
