DISH OF THE WEEK: Black Bread at SIMON & THE WHALE

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

SADLY, SIMON & THE WHALE IS NOW CLOSED.

A few years ago, I spent a few days in Lithuania. On of my tour guides stressed to me the importance of “black bread” to their cuisine. And I saw the dark rye slices everywhere. They serve it with a side of meat, they fry them and toss them with garlic, they even make it into a non-alcoholic children’s drink.

I wonder what Lithuanians would make of the black bread being served at the upscale seafood restaurant Simon & the Whale.

Simon & the Whale is the main dining option (although there are more casual food spots) in the very hipster Freehand Hotel. It comes form restaurateur Gabe Stulman and seems like it would be a very nice date spot.

I tried their worthy fish sandwich which featured pan-fried pollock on a brilliant seeded bun. Interesting that the bread was the best part of the sandwich because I was also taken by the $6 appetizer of baker Zoe Kanan’s black bread. I was really into the bread at a restaurant known for fish.

Six dollars is a bit high to me for a plate of bread, but when you have a holy experience as I did with this bread, it’s priceless. The bread itself far outshone the side of taramasalata, a cream Greek cod roe dip, which could have used a bit more tanginess.

The roasted barley black bread itself had so many complex flavors and could have been eaten as a sustaining and enjoyable meal all on its own.

It had that perfect crumb to crust ratio with a nutty crunchy crust and soft pillowy interiors. There are hints of anise seeds which do not overwhelm but give it a nice herbal quality. With a smear of the seaweed butter, sweet toasty notes get revealed

While the Lithuanians have always had black bread, Americans are sadly most familiar with the white stuff. Hopefully this basket of bread is a step in the right direction. Price: $6