Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
My favorite kind of dishes that check the dietary restriction boxes are the ones that do so accidentally. Pizza is naturally vegetarian. Mochi and rice noodles are naturally gluten free. And many Thai curries use coconut milk which is a-ok for those suffering from lactose issues.
When the amazing chefs Alex Raji and Eder Montero were creating the squid dish at their new (and constantly packed) seafood restaurant in Cobble Hill, I can’t imagine they were thinking about a gluten free pasta option. But maybe they were. Either way, their take on carbonara sans noodles is brilliant.
I ducked into Saint Julivert Fisherie at the beginning of dinner on a weekday evening. They were kind enough to let me sit at the bar, but the tiny restaurant was packed by the time I left. I can tell why.
This quick meal was one of the better dining experiences I have had in a long while. The bartender was actually very helpful, the vibe was comfortable and sophisticated, and the food was truly extraordinary.
The squid carbonara is very different from what I was expecting. I assumed the plate would be a rich creamy cheese sauce layered over some sort of long Italian noodles. I was very wrong.
Here the only noodles are thinly sliced tentacles or calamari. They were cooked al dente with a masterful crisp to each bite and a meaty softness further in. Bracing endive was also mixed in with the cephalopod.
In place of a creamy sauce, a buttery eggy parmesan foam sat atop the dish and a squid ink sauce was painted on the side. All the flavors of carbonara were there with exhilarating textures and an elegant lightness.
Forget rice or zucchini noodles, the best gluten-free substitute for pasta is… squid. Who knew?. Price: $19
| SAINT JULIVERT FISHERIE |
| 264 Clinton Street (at Verandah Place), Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (347) 987-3710 |
| saintjulivertbk |
