Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City
Ironically I’m writing this post from Mexico. Like actual Mexico. I am on the gorgeous Isla Mujeres for a family vacation paired with a conference for the tour company I work for. I’ve been stuffing myself silly with tortillas, tacos, and chiles.
No question if you want the best Mexican food come down here (or somewhere else in the country), but I’m actually going to write about a hot new Mexican restaurant in Brooklyn, New York. Which is not actually in Mexico.
Oxomoco is hip and lively. It’s run by a chef who previously worked at St. Louis pizza spot Speedy Romeo which has become a Brooklyn favorite. While he himself isn’t Mexican, it looked like many of the cooks on the line in the open kitchen might have been.
Most of the food, in my opinion, was interesting but didn’t go the distance. One of the highlights was a chicken version of the usually pork-based al pastor tacos. And something called a tlayada that some may compare to a “Mexican pizza”
Since I am in the Yucatan peninsula and not in Oaxaca (where this dish comes from), I won’t be trying these at the source on this trip. So I’m not sure how authentic Oxomoco’s version is but I know when something tastes good and this tasted great.
The tortilla is browned and crisped thanks to the addition of lard and brown butter. Its richness is mellowed out and enhanced by the other ingredients of camote (sweet potatoes), complex pipian (pumpkin seed sauce), quesillo cheese, and bright bursts from pomegranate seeds. It’s sweet and crisp and incredibly satisfying.
So while I’m lucky enough to have the best Mexican food this week (in Mexico), it won’t be hard to find some more when I return to good old New York. Price: $16
| OXOMOCO |
| 128 Greenpoint Avenue (between Manhattan Avenue and Franklin Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn (646) 688-4180 |
| oxomoconyc.com/ |
