Looking back on 2014, I present the most memorable and greatest dishes of my year.
I can’t believe 2014 is practically over. It was fun while it lasted. And this year I really got a great taste of some new, hot restaurants in addition to dishes from classic New York institutions that I should have visited a long time ago. Here are the top five dishes I tasted this year:
NUMBER 5: SEA URCHIN GUACAMOLE at ÉLAN
SADLY, ÉLAN IS NOW CLOSED.
Asian-influenced guacamole really sounds like a mash-up gone horribly wrong, but in the capable hands of veteran chef David Waltuck, it is simply marvelous. Waltuck returned to the city this year with élan and brought his refined French technique together with unexpected flavors. The sea urchin guacamole adds a briny, rich layer to avocados that most taco joints would only dream about. Greaseless and light taro chips make the perfect vessel for a creamy guacamole that is dotted with sweet soy sauce and bright wasabi, along with the piéce de résistance: tongues of luxurious sea urchin. Price: $19
ÉLAN |
43 East 20th Street (between Park Avenue South and Broadway), Flatiron District (646) 682-7105 |
elannyc.com |
NUMBER 4: GRILLED SHORT RIB at BETONY
SADLY, BETONY IS NOW CLOSED.
My birthday dinner this year was a huge blowout at Betony, which has reinvigorated the Midtown dining scene. It’s both fancy and high-end, but without too much stuffiness and if you play your cards right, you could get out of the restaurant without taking out a second mortgage. The dish I’m raving about now is one that most critics praised last year. Chef Bryce Shuman sous vides then grills a giant fatty beef rib, so it has both a masterful tenderness and a smoky crisp exterior. As perfect as the meat was, it’s heightened by its accompaniments which includes the greatest smoked mashed potatoes I’ve ever tasted. I wish it was my birthday all year long. Price: $40
BETONY |
41 West 57th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenue), Midtown West (212) 465-2400 |
betony-nyc.com |
NUMBER 3: ESPECIAL ADOBADA at LOS TACOS NO. 1
Forget kale salads or fried chicken, this was the year of Mexican food. There’s even now a bona fide high-end Mexican restaurant (Cosme) in New York selling NY strip tacos for $35. It’s supposed to be excellent, but for now, I’m going to stick with cheap and unfussy Mexican food. And this year, I discovered the best Mexican that Manhattan has to offer. Los Tacos No. 1 is nestled inside Chelsea Market. And here they are not only preparing impeccable tacos, but they are also deep frying a quesadilla. It’s called their Especial and can be stuffed with any filling, but I urge you to try the adobada (marinated pork and pineapple). Once you try this, you’ll have no interest in saving up for an expensive Mexican meal. This is all you need. Price: $5 ($6 with filling)
LOS TACOS NO. 1 |
75 Ninth Avenue (between West 15th and West 16th Street), Inside Chelsea Market, Meatpacking District (212) 256-0343 |
lostacosno1.com |
NUMBER 2: MILLE CRÊPES at LADY M CAKE BOUTIQUE
A cake boutique sounds ultra-fancy and intimidating, but don’t let it scare you away. Because Lady M is making one of the most interesting and mind-blowingly delicious treats in the entire city. The cake/crêpe hybrid known as a Mille Crépes means “thousand layers,” but all you really need are twenty. Each delicate layer of eggy pastry is cemented together with whipped cream and composed into a light, but decadent dessert with a perfect caramelized crown. If this is a cake boutique, I want to try everything on. In my belly. Price: $7.50
LADY M CAKE BOUTIQUE |
36 West 40th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenue), Midtown West (212) 452-2222 |
41 East 78th Street (between Madison and Park Avenue), Upper East Side (212) 452-2222 |
The Plaza Food Hall, One West 59th Street (between Fifth and Sixth Avenue), Midtown West (212) 452-2222 |
ladym.com |
NUMBER 1: BEEF RIB at HOMETOWN BAR-B-QUE
I’m such a barbecue snob. I often tweet out remarks about very popular barbecue joints in the city that just don’t live up to my standard. I can never say that about Hometown. This place makes the best I’ve tasted in New York. It’s worth the trek out in Red Hook to splurge on their gigantic beef rib. I’m normally a fan of pork ribs, but this mammoth features a blackened crust of peppercorns and spices protecting a neverending slab of buttery meat and sweet fat. It almost feels like a smoked meat marshmallow. And it’s my favorite dish of the year. Price: $25/pound
HOMETOWN BAR-B-QUE |
454 Van Brunt Street (at Reed Street), Red Hook, Brooklyn (347) 294-4644 |
hometownbarbque.com |