DISH OF THE WEEK in New York: Potato Latke Tartine at BIEN CUIT

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

I always wished there were more than 8 nights to Hanukkah. By the eighth crazy night of receiving presents, displaying plastic menorahs in the window, and feasting on latkes, you’ve gotten into a routine. You’ve grown accustomed to this celebratory Jewish festival. And then it all ends and you’re back where you started. With a few more pairs of socks.

And while last night might have been the official finale of Jewish gift giving, at least potato latkes never fully go out of season. I tasted an extraordinary version of this Hanukkah speciality at Bien Cuit over the weekend and am exicted to hear they will be offering it at least for another few days.

Bien Cuit is an exceptional French-influenced bakery in Brooklyn that makes not only stellar loaves of bread, but also impeccable pastries and some savory snacks as well. The unconventional potato latke tartine that I encountered is unlike anything Grandma would have fried up with that symbolic oil.

This dish lies somewhere between a potato pancake and an open-faced French sandwich. It’s composed of a puck of perfectly fried and firm potato shreds that are plump, moist, and greaseless. On top is a log of salted apple shallot jam, chive créme fraîche, and artful groups of salmon roe. It’s a light little snack that is joyfully loaded with both homey Jewish flavors and refined French elegance.

I’d trade the eight pairs of socks for just a few more bites of this delicious gift.