DISH OF THE WEEK: Kirby Goat and Falafel at LOURO

Every week, I document another dish that impressed and satiated me during my food adventures around New York City

SADLY, LOURO IS NOW CLOSED.

My falafel journey has brought me to many different Middle Eastern restaurants around the five boroughs. But in my adventures, I haven’t spent more than $10 on a falafel order. Fried chickpea fritters are cheap and accessible. So I’m often leery of upscale falafel on restaurant menus.

Louro, a new well-regarded restaurant in the West Village, uses flavors from all over the world in their fusion, modern cuisine. Chef David Santos hails from Portugal, but uses his own cuisine as a stepping stone to create new flavors. For instance, an octopus bolognese falls somewhere between Italy and Portugal and is mighty delicious. The flavors were rich and distinct, although the sauce to pasta ratio was way off-kilter.

The most surprising dish was his take on falafel. Thwarting vegetarians’ favorite  food, he tops the delicate falafel rounds with bits of confited Kirby goat. The gamey flavors of the meat make the appetizer worth the $14 and added a nice fatiness that was cut with cucumber slices, fresh parsley, and a mound of lemon-mint yogurt sauce.

Here were all the flavors of NYC’s best street food, but well-composed and refined. I’m not sure I’d pick this falafel over the cheaper, more authentic versions in the city, but it’s a surprising and successful start to a global meal.