Beer

EAST MEETS WEST (Greenport Harbor’s Chinook’red at Half King)

My search for the best beer in New York continues….

At one of the most western (geographically, not culturally) bars in the entire city, I had a taste of a new beer from the most eastern brewery in the state of New York. Now I’m pretty awful at geography, so don’t hold me to either of those facts.

I visited the Half King many moons ago when I was still a New York newbie. It’s all the way on Tenth Avenue in Chelsea, so I’ve not been back since. I’ve passed by it a handful of times, but I very rarely find myself this far west.

My memory of the bar was that it was a slightly fancy dive bar, but dark and brooding. This time, it was brighter and more welcoming than I remembered with a cozy second room dedicated to diners. I’m not sure if it was the time of day I arrived or because they renovated the place or maybe I just have a sunnier outlook on life now. And what can be wrong when Rick Astley is playing on the stereo?

Happy hour had just begun and all of their draft beers were $4. That’s quite a deal considering they have some decent craft choices among the usual Bud and Yuengling.

Since I’ve only tried one of their beers on this search so far, I chose Greenport Harbor’s Chinook’red, which I believe was misnamed as Chinook Red. I can understand the confusion.

The beer is in fact a red ale brewed with Chinook hops, as part of their Project Hoppiness series (the last entry was the Other Side IPA). Hop was certainly the predominant flavor on the beer, but it was balanced with a light sweetness and a medium body.

Reddish amber were the hues on the transparent and clean looking brew. It had a tight yet consistent head and smelled of cherry, grapefruits, and perhaps a hint of caramel. The hop flavors started spicy and intense, but mellowed out to a bitter grassiness before finishing strong and then disappearing on the mouth. It was balanced and easy drinking – nothing too overwhelming, but strong enough for hop heads.

The Half King is a comfortable, chill location to try some interesting craft beers. It’s possible I may not return for another few years, but that would be for geography reasons alone. I wonder what my perception of the place will be then – when I’m old and gray.

Is Greenport Harbor’s Chinook’red the best beer in NY? An 8 out of 10 for being totally drinkable with subtle sweetness and an intense, but unaggressive hop character.

GREENPORT HARBOR BREWING COMPANY
harborbrewing.com
THE HALF KING
505 West 23rd Street (at 10th Avenue)
Chelsea
(212) 462-4300
thehalfking.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.