TONY's 100 Best '09

#46 – POTATO KISHKE at DRIGGS MEAT MARKET

If you’ve ever heard the term, “A kick in the kishke,” you know it’s probably painful regardless of if you know what the word kishke actually means.  And if you’ve ever actually been kicked in the kishkes, I am sorry for you.

I hate to make these connections, but kishke means guts.  And that’s basically what you stuff meat into when it comes to making a sausage.  But I think it’s important to call food what it is, you know?

And I appreciate that the Polish call the thing what it is.  A kishke is a sausage stuffed with meat and some sort of grain.  In the case of the potato kishke on my list, it’s a combo of pork and potato.

I ventured in the snow to get this list item from Driggs Meat Market, which is a little Polish deli/butcher shop in Greenpoint.  I immediately asked for the potato kishke and the owner was impressed and surprised.  He seemed excited that this All-American bearded man was buying one of his favorite Polish sausages.  And he was pretty confident I would love it and be back soon.

Well, he was half right.  I did love it.  And I would definitely go back soon, but Greenpoint is not an area I find myself in too often.  So it might be a while before I return.

I bought the huge link and brought it home.  It was only $4.50 a pound and this was enough for at least three meals.  It didn’t look like the most appetizing sausage.  It was long and thick and looked almost like a sea creature.  Or a tiny pair of stuffed ladies’ stockings.  Don’t ask, just look at the picture.

But when I cut into, the presentation no longer mattered.  This was a really unique and hearty sausage.  The main flavor was potato – it almost tasted mashed.  There was just a hint of pork which added texture and smokiness.  The sausage had lots of pop and was incredibly juicy.   I brought mustard to the table just in case (I love mustard with sausages) but this sausage needed nothing.

It was an interesting mild sausage with lots of hearty, warming flavors.  It warmed the kishkes, which is a lot better than being kicked there, believe me.

Would Driggs Meat Market’s Potato Kishke make my Top 100 of the year?  Even though the looks left a bit to be desires, the sausage was delicious and different giving it an 8 out of 10.

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.