YES, A BAGEL! (Ess-A-Bagel)

My search for the best bagels in New York continues….

The argument over the best bagels in New York is a much heated debate – just like pizza, pastrami, and dumplings. But more than any of those foods, most people’s favorite bagel happens to be the shop closest to them. I think that’s true for a number of reasons. First off, bagels are definitely freshest and most delicious when they have less travel time. So if you’re taking them home to enjoy, only the closest bagel shop will do. Serious Eats wrote a piece a few years ago about this very issue.

Secondly, bagels aren’t something most people will travel for. There really aren’t any destination bagel shop and so you learn to love the place that is closest. And, of course, a good bagel shop should give off a relaxing, welcoming, neighborly vibe. Sort of like the bar on the TV show Cheers where everybody knows your name. Except there’s no alcohol and nobody’s bearing a mullet (at least we hope not).

My good friend and fellow food blogger Jason Feirman has been raving to me about Ess-a-Bagel since I began this journey. It’s located on First Avenue and 21st Street. And while I believe Jason truly loves their product, guess where he lives? Just a few blocks away.

However Jason isn’t the only one who loves Ess-a-Bagel. When I arrived at the original location (there’s a second larger store on Third Avenue in midtown), I could tell why the neighbors flock here. It’s been open since 1976, but feels like it’s been around much longer with quaint tables and chairs in the back. Up front, you get to peruse all the cream cheese and bagel options (I do feel like the former outweighs the latter). Strangely, the more I taste on this journey the more I realize the correlation between bagel shops and ice cream parlors.

As I ate my bagel, I watched a mother give her babbling baby girl a bagel to chew on. The little tyke didn’t enunciate many words, but the one the baby said perfectly was “bagel.” My guess is this kid lives in the neighborhood and perhaps her first word was here at Ess-a-Bagel.

With Ess-A-Bagel, I started a new strategy. I asked the guy behind the counter which bagels (if any) just came out of the oven. He touched all the different options to feel which was warm (not to worry, he was wearing a glove) and gave me three choices. Unfortunately, my go-to Plain bagel was not one of those. So I guess I had to order two: the Plain and another favorite of mine, raisin, since that was one of the naturally (sans toasting) warm bagels.

The raisin bagel wasn’t really hot and felt a little smaller and denser than the other bagel. Granted, that’s not a bad thing. And without toasting this guy, it had a very crunchy bottom and a soft warm interior. It’s the perfect argument for not toasting bagels (the guys behind the counter won’t do it for you even if you ask). I tasted maybe a dusting of cinnamon in the bread, but it was mainly a raisin heavy bagel with dark yeasty overtones.

The plain bagel was a bit more swollen and had a much more erratic shape. I really enjoyed this one with its salty notes and perfect texture, although it was less crunchy than the raisin option. The cream cheese on both was absolutely heavenly – fluffy, creamy, and magical. I’m a little disappointed I didn’t get to try all the creative cream cheese and tofu options here, like Chocolate Chip Cream Cheese and Jalapeño Cream Cheese. I guess that means I’ll just have to move into the neighborhood.

Does Ess-a-Bagel have the best bagels in NY? Certainly if you live in the neighborhood. But even for someone traveling from elsewhere, it’s worth a 9 out of 10 for the wonderful textures and amazing cream cheese.