#48 – PANZEROTTI at I TRULLI

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

SADLY, I TRULLI IS NOW CLOSED.

Elephant ears, zeppole, sfinge, Italian doughnuts. Whatever you call them, I imagine that at some point they struck a special chord with you when you were a kid. I know they did with me. They’re lighter and fluffier than typical doughnuts and have a sweeter batter. I remember some pizzerias would make them doused with powdered sugar and the smell of them in the air made any cheesy carnival worth attending.

Zeppole were not on the Time Out list item (although I sort of wish they had been) despite a new bakery from the owners of Artichoke Pizza that specialize in the fritters (it’s cleverly named Led Zeppole). But when I took the first bite into another Italian pastry called Panzerotti (these were on the list), I couldn’t help but think of that sweet fried dough from childhood.

The big difference is panzerotti are savory pastries and won’t cause quite the sugar rush of the aforementioned goodies. The classy, but casual bar (aka, ‘enoteca) next door to the fancier, white tableclothed I Trulli was completely empty when we arrived. I had to hunt down a bartender to take our order. When she arrived, we scored a great deal on a lambrusco flight ($12 for 3 generous tastings), in addition to sampling the panzerotti and a bright and refreshing grilled octopus appetizer.

Panzerotti are basically miniature fried calzones. When the plate of four arrived I expected them to be heavy and dripping with grease. I was pleasantly surprised as I discovered an airy yet dense bread. There was a hint of salt and sweetness (which must have been what reminded me of zeppole) to the dough and it opened up to a moderate, but fair filling of melted mozzarella cheese and tomatoes. Even though they were fried and doughy, each bite tasted light and there was no messy oozing of cheese, tomato, or oil. It was a very refined guilty pleasure.

In truth, aside from the Italian, fried, and delicious adjectives, I don’t think there is much similarity between the dough used for panzerotti and zeppole. But my 10 year-old self (and by default, my thirtysomething self) doesn’t care about logistics and would happily eat these as an appetizer, dinner, and dessert.

Would I Trulli’s Panzerotti make my Top 100 of the year? Even without powdered sugar on top, these fried doughy masses are oozing with flavor, yet maintain a pleasing lightness earning them a 9 out of 10.