#46 – HAZELNUT AND MUSHROOM CROSTINI at PURE FOOD AND WINE

Once again Time Out New York released their Top 100 Dishes of the year and once again, I’m going to eat my way through every one. And no price point or subway delay will stop me. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100.

Oftentimes when there are limitations, creativity expands and you end up with a really fantastic project. I found this true in acting school. And anybody who watches Top Chef knows that the really creative dishes come out of the most difficult and limiting challenges.

And I think if more chefs approached vegan and vegetarian food this way, we’d have a lot more exciting destinations for non-meat eaters (and those with an interest in innovative cooking). In the case of Pure Food and Wine, there’s no real cooking per se and that could be why the food ends up being so unique and delicious.

This place is all raw. Which means that none of the food is cooked and no meat or animal products are used in any of the cooking. Many people might ask how does anything taste good. And there, my friends, is where both the limitations and the ingenuity comes into play.

I had been to this dark and romantic restaurant a handful of times a few years back and fondly remember my spectacular (albeit expensive) meals. Beet Ravioli and Rosemary Ice Cream both come to mind. So when I discovered the Hazelnut and Mushroom Crostini on Time Out’s list, I was eager to return. And when I found a Groupon for half off a set amount of food, I was even more excited.

Although I had the Groupon, we were still selective with what to order since the menu was quite expensive. We shared two delicious entrees and skipped dessert, which were the most shockingly priced menu items at around $17! I can only imagine that the food is very labor-intensive and uses the finest ingredients. But for that money, you’d hope for at least filling portions.

At most vegan restaurants you find the menu littered with protein substitutes like tofu and seitan, but here everything is made using the basic components of life: vegetables, fruits, and nuts. When the crostinis arrived, they resembled a beautiful (and tiny) plate of hors d’oeuvres. If I didn’t know better, I might have mistaken these for a complimentary amuse bouche. But these little bites come in at a whopping $14 for three. They’re constructed on top of a hazelnut cracker (no gluten here either) that had the crunch of a rye cracker. Topped with a rich and creamy bernaise sauce (macadamia nuts), caraway studded sauerkraut, and a garnish of  meaty crimini mushrooms, this was a decadent little bite. The kicker was the drizzle of a sweet and tangy apple cider reduction.

My mind was blown when the entrees came out and I tasted a raw, vegan lasagna that actually tasted like lasagna. If it wasn’t cold (the only problem with the raw thing), I’d swear I was eating real lasagna. The bite of the zucchini truly resembled al dente pasta, the basil pistachio pesto had the grainy texture of ground meat, and the ricotta cheese was made out of rich, creamy pumpkin seeds. The Celeriac Ravioli didn’t fare quite as well. While it had interesting textures and fresh flavors, I found the tarragon mint “cream” to be a little overwhelming.

There’s no denying this food is playful and full of unexpected flavor and textures. In addition to healthy and tasty food, they’re creating works of art and science. This place can wow both vegans and meat-eaters alike. But while you leave feeling cleaner and lighter than if you’d downed a real lasagna, you also may leave rather hungry (and broke). Now if only they could add one more limitation into their menu requirements: prevent me from going for a slice of pizza afterward.

Would Pure Food and Wine’s Hazelnut and Mushroom Crotstini make my Top 100 of the year? The flavors were remarkable earning it an 8 out of 10 but I wish there was more to chew on for those prices.