#99 – DINNER at BROOKLYN FARE

My intention was to make this dinner the grand finale, number 100, last list item, big party. Since the deal at Brooklyn Fare is an eight-course dinner for $135, it felt like a celebration. It was definitely much anticipated. Since I first got the list, I was intrigued by the premise here. This wasn’t just any fancy meal. Brooklyn Fare is also the name of the gourmet grocery store next door and five times a week the chef, César Ramirez, prepares a huge meal for a very intimate group. But the whole thing is under the guise of a class. You have to reserve a spot in advance (or get on the waiting list as I did back in February), bring your own wine, and then César teaches you about cooking, while cooking for you, and from reviews and word of mouth, you get to try amazing food.

Seemed like the perfect capper to a long food journey. The only problem is that we attempted to go to City Sub earlier in the week and they were closed both times we went. So I still have to get that stupid Roast Beef Sandwich and that will be the less-exciting grand finale. But c’est la vie.

Brooklyn Fare still happened. And I still got a delicious and innovative meal. I also still dropped the $135!!!

We arrived at 7 and were greeted by a sweet waitress. It almost felt like a community of “students”, but it never fully got there for me. Maybe my expectations were too high – or maybe the whole concept has changed since word of mouth has made it a bigger deal. But this was not a class. It was maybe an observation. But there was no introduction, no greeting, we barely heard the chef explain each dish as we received it. He sort of mumbled what it was and if you caught it, you caught it.

But even if you didn’t know what you were eating, it was still all ridiculously delicious. The amuse bouches started coming fast and furious. There must have been close to 10 little bites. And they were all outstanding.

I specifically remember a watermelon slice perfectly coated with olive oil and sea salt,

a sardine strapped to a potato chip,

and a plump oyster with oyster gelatin and yuzu. Every single bite was explosive with texture and balanced flavors. I knew we were in for something truly special.

Then we referred to our program (read: menu) which was the only hint that there was a syllabus. The eight courses were divided thusly: salmon, tomato, scallop, egg, black bass, ravioli, beef, strawberry. Now I have to do my best to remember the specifics of each. It explicitly said on the menu not to take notes or photos. It hinted that it was because they want us to enjoy the food without any distractions. Well, sorry Chef César, but I took mental notes and when your back was turned, I gracefully pulled out my Iphone and caught some of the artwork on camera for all my readers.

The salmon was a parfait (that was almost as small as the amuses) with lots of fish roe and a rich egg cream of sorts. It was good, but I didn’t realize we had technically started the meal. I was waiting for some direction or lesson. I guess all I needed to do was eat. And I did it.

The tomato course was probably his masterpiece. We watched as the sous chefs all helped compose the six-part dish that featured tomatoes every possible way you can imagine. Even the ways you can’t imagine, including my favorite: the tomato marshmallow. Each component was explosive with flavor. And you kept finding more components to the components, like the little gazpacho underneath the white tomato mousse. And of course, as almost an afterthought (or palate cleanser), we got a scoop of some sweet, spicy tomato sorbet. It was fantastic.

Everything was a surprise: the poached egg was topped with rich, earthy summer truffles,

the ravioli held some tender rabbit meat,

and the beef had a rich buttery foie gras on top so if we weren’t full enough, we were certainly stuffed by the time dessert rolled out.

Except it wasn’t completely satisfying. I felt the meal sort of fizzled out. Don’t get me wrong: I loved every little thing we ate. It was so masterfully prepared and presented with seasonal ingredients and unique combinations. Everything was great. But I wanted more. And before you think me greedy, let me explain. The strawberry dessert was fresh and summery with a tangy greek yogurt sorbet. But after all those canapes to start, I thought we would maybe have a petit fours or two (or four). I still wanted closure – both with the meal (chocolate would have been nice) and with the show itself.

The chef tended to really engage the people on both corners of the long bar. We were smack in the middle and while we got a nod or two (and probably had the best visual seats in the house), I felt a little gypped. Maybe my expectations were too high after that bang of a beginning. Maybe the “class” has changed since it’s grown in popularity (they will soon be getting a liquor license and are now seating more people each night). Maybe those couples on either end were regulars (although I’m not sure how that’s even possible). I don’t know, but I left a little unfulfilled (while pleasantly full).

I hope something really special and memorable happens at City Sub and then we’ll have our grand finale (that’s where it’s happening one way or another). The Kitchen at Brooklyn Fare served fantastic food and it was a really exciting (albiet) expensive evening out. I did feel like I was involved in some secret club, but that only the most exclusive people could get front seats. And I wonder if those guys walked away with a chocolate truffle or two. Because I had to get mine at the grocery store next door.

Would Brooklyn Fare’s Dinner make my Top 100 of the year? In all honesty, probably. It was really a fantastic meal – one that I will be thinking about for a long time. But I can only give it a 9 out of 10 because it started so well and then peaked too early with that awesome tomato dish and then fizzled out with a mediocre dessert and no fireworks.