BLACK AND WHITE COOKE in New York: Rocco’s

I love Rocco’s – I really do. They are a truly authentic, beloved Italian pasticceria in the middle of touristy Greenwich Village.

Years ago I wrote about their stellar cannoli, and I still bring tour groups here regularly.

Along with their rainbow cookies, pignolis, and napoleons, I also would get a regular glimpse of their giant black and white cookie. So it was only a matter of time before I brought one home for me and Sam to try.

Again, I made the mistake of walking around with this cookie in the heat before we got to try it. So my at-home photo of it was not the most attractive. This cookie definitely deserves better.

But despite the travel-induced blemishes, this cookie did not live up to the others we have tried so far. It fits the bill of a classic black and white that I’ve tried many times in the past, but I’ll be honest, this is why some people say they actually don’t like the iconic New York dessert.

First off, the cookie smelled very strongly of lemon. No doubt the cake and white frosting had some sort of extract in it. Italians do love to add almond or orange extract to their cookies and this one was no exception.

I found the fondant on both sides to be way too sweet and the cloying cake is browned and less soft than I would expect. It’s a little spongey and dry, but otherwise felt like a soft biscotti masquerading as a black and white.

There is no innovation here, which is one of the reasons I love Rocco’s. But some pastries just work and are loved more than others. The cannoli gets an A+ but the traditional, old-school black and white is just not for me. And I think most people would agree.

Does Rocco’s have the best black and white cookie in NY? This is the way it always tasted as a kid so they are not so far off, but it doesn’t stretch to the best this kind of cookie can be. It only gets a 6.5 out of 10.