DUMPLING REVIEW: Dumpling Lab

When I stopped by on a Friday lunch, there was only one other table occupied. I had thought this was more of a nighttime dinner spot and had no sense that its days (and nights) were in fact numbered.

While much of the menu looked interesting (the focus is on food from the city of Qingdao, or Tsingtao), I was here for the dumplings.

And the dumplings were not only the expected pork and shrimp, there were a few unexpected options. There better be at these prices.

$10 for six dumplings would make any regular Chinatown eater have a heart attack. But you can get somewhat of a deal if you commit to two types ($17).

To be honest, I was expecting very small dumplings, but both orders were served generously and possibly bigger than the $2 ones you can find a few blocks south. I was pleasantly surprised by how much food I received.

Both orders were covered with what fancy restaurants might call a tuile, but I think this may have been the crispy skin formed in the pan. It tasted salty with a hint of grease.

First up were their signature Mackerel Dumplings.The dumplings were fantastic. The thick skins broke easily and revealed a very juicy exterior. Spanish mackerel is mixed with pork, chives, and dried shellfish. The dumplings were not nearly as fishy as you’d expect. A pleasant hint of briny fish was subtle and had just the right amount of bite. Dipped into the recommended ginger vinegar sauce, it really sang!

The server nudged me towards also ordering the Sichuan Hot Pot Dumplings and I’m sure glad he did.

The bright yellow skin of the dumpling warned me there was some heat inside and it did not disappoint.

The meat exploded with flavor and juice. They were actually juicier than some soup dumplings I’ve had. Based on the hot pot reference, I imagine that was on purpose.

These had a deep numbing Sichuan spice with beef that was earthy and satisfying. I had been craving Sichuan food lately and this really the spot.

Both of these dumplings were clearly the work of a chef who is rooted in tradition and interested in trying something new. Sadly, it seems like this was the wrong time and place. I hope they find their way back to the city sometime soon.

Does Dumpling Lab have the best dumplings in NY? They had some really exciting (although expensive) options. And if they were still serving, they would get a solid  8 out of 10.