PIZZA REVIEW: Baby Luc’s

My search for the best pizza in New York continues….

I have not been to the storied pizzeria Lucali since my first visit over ten years ago. Since that time, the pizzeria has developed a rabid following and, possibly thanks to Beyonce and Jay-Z, garners huge lines of eager diners hours before the business ever opens.

I liked the pizza well enough back in 2010, but not so much to endure those long lines.

Well, last summer the owner Mark Iacono did what most pizza owners have been doing lately and that is open up a slice shop. He follows behind folks like Paulie Gee and neighbors (Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinell). Pizza slices once again are all the rage in NYC.

The slice version of Lucali is called Baby Luc’s and it too has had huge lines to get a taste. One weekend morning before a tour, I beelined to the shop and amazingly was the only person wanting a slice at 11am. No lines.

Square slices are the thing here and I got two.

The first slice was the Margherita slice which was served hot and fresh. This was the first out of the oven and perhaps they rushed to get the shop open because I thought it could actually use a bit more char.

The base was a bit thick and cardboardy, but the interior of the dough was warm and soft. It was also painted with a heavy hand of acidic tomato sauce. I was surprised at the lack of restraint here. Otherwise, the flavors were pretty good. It had a nice healthy garnish (or two) of basil and I enjoyed the amount of sharpness from the cheese.

I was thankful I went in for a second slice because the Ricotta and Broccoli Rabe slice fared much better. It didn’t have any of that thick tomato sauce but instead big hunks of lemony ricotta and loads of mozzarella melted onto the canvas.

Again, very little char and the dough was a bit too buttery – reminiscent of garlic knots (which to me is too much on an already rich slice). But the flavors on top were great.

Full disclosure is that I visited a few months ago and right when they opened. So perhaps things get better as the day or the months go on. So just like at Lucali, I’d really love to return and try it again, but only if the long lines are tamed,

Is Baby Luc’s the best pizza in NY? I must say I was a little underwhelmed with the lack of delicacy for such a high priced slice. They could have used more char and more care, but as is they are tasty but far from the best. 7 out of10.