My search for the best pizza in New York continues….
I have to admit I wasn’t very fair to Full Moon. I wrote it off before I even went inside.
Let me explain: it resembles most fast cheap slice joints around the city with a counter, giant slices of cheese-covered pizzas sitting around, and the usual handful of banquettes for a quick or communal bite.
It also happens to be at the edge of the most densely populated and deliciously authentic Italian neighborhood in the entire city. My assumption was that Full Moon was not the place to burn up your pizza calories in the neighborhood.
But I figured it was only fair to find out for myself. Turns out I was right but I was also wrong.
While they’re not as traditional as some of the century’s old restaurants along Arthur Avenue, Full Moon is more than just a cheap take-out place. And they have been since 1976.
Sure, local Fordham University students hang out here, but so do the suburban Italians who come back and shop in the old neighborhood. And they make a pretty good slice.
The most unique thing about the pizza here is the cornmeal-dusted crust. I’m not exactly sure why they do this (and I can’t find any reason or tradition to this addition) but I don’t mind it. The atoms of cornmeal add a unique texture and a hint of sweetness.
A slice like this is also usually overly greasy, but this one was a bit more restrained. While the tomato sauce was rather bland, the cheese dominated and the crust retained a nice crispness.
For $3.75, you get a very large slice of pizza. It might not be the way they do it in Naples, but it’s the way they do it in the Bronx and it shouldn’t be dismissed.
Is Full Moon Pizzeria the best pizza in NY? It’s not even the best pizza on this street, but it’s a quality New York-style slice and is the best of that kind on Arthur Avenue.8 out of 10.
FULL MOON PIZZERIA |
600 East 187th Street (at Arthur Avenue), Belmont, Bronx (718) 584-3451 |
fullmoonpizza.com |