PIZZA REVIEW: Sorbillo Pizzeria

My search for the best pizza in New York continues….

SADLY, SORBILLO PIZZERIA IS NOW CLOSED.

If you asked me about the most traditional (and delicious) Neapolitan-style pizza in New York, I would have sent you to the businesses run by Roberto Caporuscio and his family, like Kesté or Don Antonio. Sure, Roberta’s and Motorino are great options but they are run by an American and a Belgian, respectively. And there are other Italian pizza spots that are worthy (Luzzo’s, No. 28, etc.)

Earlier this year, another real deal Italian pizzeria has shown up to give Roberto a run for his money.

Gino Sorbillo may be new to New York but he is certainly not new to the Naples pizza world. He owns two other Neapolitan-style pizzerias including the original one in Naples that was first opened in 1935 by his grandparents. The man knows pizza.

And you can certainly tell by the pies he’s putting out at the new location on Bowery. I came one early evening before the crowds (and there are major crowds most nights) and found a seat easily.

Most of the pies seem like a variation on each other, but all start with the finest Italian ingredients. There are no canned tomatoes at this restaurant – only the best traditional San Marzano.

I kept it as simple as possible and went with the Antica Margherita. This seemed bigger than most personal 12″ pies offered around the city. Perhaps they do things bigger in Italy, which would surprise me actually.

Of course, I’m not complaining about a bigger pizza. And the crazy thing is I finished the entire thing myself. It was that good.

There was a deep smoky char to the crust which is only created by an expert pizziaolo (and the right type of oven). The dough was chewy and you could taste a hint of sweetness in the dough – perhaps because it is advertised as organic. Doesn’t matter – it was great!

The tomato sauce was bright and sweet and the cheese rich and salty. It was topped with some fresh basil slivers (non of those browned leaves) and a drizzle of “Terre Francescane” olive oil, which I learned is a special extra virgin blend from Umbria. It added a subtle spicy fruitiness.

I’ve never been to Naples so I shouldn’t really throw around words like “authentic” but I could certainly taste something unique and pleasing in the pie I tasted at Sorbillo. I haven’t had an experience like this since the last time I ate at Kesté.

Is Sorbillo Pizzeria the best pizza in NY? As for Neapolitan pizza, it’s one of the few excellent Italian owned and the pies are probably as good as they are in Italy. They get a 9 out of 10.