DUMPLING REVIEW: Mimi Cheng’s

My search for the best dumplings in New York continues….

Certain foods just work better when they’re dirty and cheap. I know that sounds wrong, but after trying the “cleaned-up” dumplings at Mimi Cheng’s, I realize this is so true.

The new hip storefront in the East Village feels like a farmhouse restaurant – and not a farm in northern China somewhere. I’m talking more Hudson Valley. I was expecting to be served kale, beets, and organic roast chicken. But instead, it works like any other dumpling house in the city.

You can watch Chinese (or Taiwanese, in this case) women hand-rolling the dumplings while you order one of their three varieties and then wait for the meat pouches to be brought to you.

I stuck with the most traditional, the Reinvented Classic, which featured the expected pork, along with cabbage, and bok choy. It’s reinvented here thanks to some key adjectives (organic, local, and pasture-raised).

Listen, I’m all for sustainable, higher-quality ingredients. I’m even willing to pay extra for it (in this case, $8 for six, instead of the usal 4 for $1). But I still want the food to taste good. These, I’m afraid just missed the mark.

The wonton wrappers feature a triangle shape that become dry very quickly. They soon stuck to the side of the biodegradable container and it was difficult to get them in my mouth without ripping them open. Perhaps I should have ordered the dumplings pan-fried, instead of boiled. Maybe these really do need the extra fat.

Inside didn’t fare much better. The pork tasted clean, sure, but also very bland and dry. There wasn’t enough fat to give it that desired dumpling flavor. There was a slight oniony note from some green onions, but not much else going on.

The saving grace came from their secret sauce served on the side, which I quite liked. It was the only reason I continued eating the dumplings really. The brown sauce with a bright red glow combined the usual dipping experiences – a soy vinegar and some hot sauce – into one dip. It’s all you could want in a dumpling sauce.

While the other dumplings in the city might not be as good for you, they taste much better. Sometimes it’s important to get a little down and dirty. Leave the organic healthiness to the health food. 

Does Mimi Cheng’s have the best dumpling in NY? They might have the healthiest, but unfortunately all those local and organic adjectives give them a dry, bland flavor. Dumplings need to be a little dirty. These get a 5 out of 10.