Beer

BEER REVIEW: Barrier Brewery’s Mollycoddle at BEER CULTURE

My search for the best beer in New York continues….

BEER CULTURE, 328 West 45th Street (between 8th and 9th Avenues), Hell's Kitchen

Most people see a dark colored beer and they immediately think it will be full-bodied and strong in alcohol. Those people have clearly never tried a British-style mild ale.

Mild ales aren’t as common on this side of the pond, but it’s a really interesting style. I’ve had a special version once from Brooklyn Brewery, but I most recently had a glass of Barrier’s Mollycoddle at one of the most under appreciated new bars in the city.

Not Too Crowded

Beer Culture is one of those bottle shops where you can come in to buy bottles or a growler to go and while shopping, you can easily pony up to the bar to buy some beer to sample. They also have a menu of prepared food like pretzels and cheese and some mighty friendly bartenders. It’s in the very under-served area of Hell’s Kitchen where frat bars and Bud Lights rule the streets.

I say this bar is under appreciated because both times I’ve been in, it is rather quiet and uncrowded. Don’t get me wrong, I prefer it that way. While others cram into Rattle & Hum or Ginger Man, I’d rather sip my beer quietly and stretch my legs out.

A Menu of Beer Culture

The beer menu offers 10 and 16 ounce pours from mostly American brewers. Both times I’ve been, Barrier was represented, which makes me very happy.

Barrier Brewery's Mollycoddle at BEER CULTURE

Now back to the beer. It pours a dark brown cola color with an expected matching head. I couldn’t get too much from the nose leading me to believe it would be beer. But some flavors came alive as I sipped. The hops definitely takes a backseat to the roasted malts and bubble gummy yeast. Although no flavor was significant. There was a touch of caramel sweetness in the finish with a very mild carbonation.

At 4.5%, it’s a very drinkable beer. This is the way beer used to be consumed. It’s made very mild so you can drink it for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Almost like liquid bread.

Once again, Barrier has crafted a drinkable and unique beer style. Mollycoddle is a slang word meaning “to protect or pamper”.  And Barrier (and Beer Culture) has always managed to do that to me.

Is Barrier Brewery’s Mollycoddle the best beer in NY? It’s not the most flavorful, but it might be the most mild. Dark and roasty with very light bitter and sweet flavors, it’s easy to drink for any meal of the day. 8 out of 10.

BARRIER BREWING CO.
barrierbrewing.com
BEER CULTURE
328 West 45th Street (between Eighth and Ninth Avenue),
Hell’s Kitchen
(646) 590-2139
beerculturenyc.com

AboutBrian Hoffman

Brian Hoffman is a classically trained actor who is now a full-time tour guide, blogger, and food obsessive. He leads food and drink tours around New York City, which not only introduce tour-goers to delicious food, but gives them a historical context. He has written food articles for Gothamist and Midtown Lunch in addition to overseeing this blog and a few food video series, including Eat This, Locals Know, and Around the World in One City. His latest series is an international cooking show with his son which can be found on this site.