New York Dish #66 – UKOY at PURPLE YAM

For the third year in a row, I’m going to attempt to eat every single item on Time Out New York’s annual 100 Best Dishes list. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100. Let the gluttony continue…

SADLY, PURPLE YAM IS NOW CLOSED.

The name Purple Yam makes me think I’m going to be eating healthy vegetarian food. Considering most dishes on the menu consist of fatty, succulent animal parts or contain the word “fried” in the menu description, I can’t say a mango or carrot here and there do much good. Except they provide flavor. And that’s what Filipino food is all about: a wonderful blend of sweet, sour, and spicy.

We enjoyed our dinner at Purple Yam last year and I was eager to return to try this year’s list item which is only available at brunch. The Filipino restaurant is located all the way out in Ditmas Park, which is quite a schlep from the city, but worth it thanks to  some great restaurants and bars, not to mention some stunning mansions a block away.

Ukoy is described as a vegetable and shrimp fritter. And while it is not in plural form, it’s hard for me to expect just one fritter. This fried orb of ingredients was not just an ordinary single fritter.

It’s listed as an appetizer, but this patty is rich enough for an entree. I’m not quite not sure why it’s exclusive to brunch, but it is useful for soaking up any remnants of the previous night’s intoxication.

Bits of fried vegetables easily fall off the orb. The greasy flavor with a light texture reminded me of refined onion rings. But instead of your typical red onions, here we have leeks, bean sprouts, cabbage, and shrimp. There was layer upon layer of crunch and with a dip in the vinegary sauce, those sweet and spicy and sour flavors come to life.

From what I’ve discovered, the ukoy is a perfect example of the hearty deliciousness of Filipino food.  Just don’t expect a side of greens (unless of course they’re topped with deep fried pork belly).

Would Purple Yam’s Ukoy make my Top 100 of the year? It gets an 8 out of 10 since it’s full of lots of contrasting, balanced flavors and is an addicting pyramid of fried, salty goodness.