#52 – TAJARIN AL SUGO D’ARROSTO at MANZO (EATALY)

For the third year in a row, I’m going to attempt to eat every single item on Time Out New York’s annual 100 Best Dishes list. In no particular order, here’s my take on their Top 100. Let the gluttony continue…

I was a little worried a few months ago when Michael Toscano, the chef from Eataly’s Manzo, left the meat-centric luxury restaurant within the ever crowded food mart to open Perla in the West Village. Oftentimes when a new chef takes over a restaurant (like Fitz Tallon did here), they want to make their own identity and so some signature items often get ditched. While the new chef certainly made some changes (like a new affordable 3 course lunch), he thankfully left the Tajarin Al Sugo d’Arrosto alone.

This was the pasta dish that Time Out placed high on their 100 Best list – they rated it Number Nine. I found it strange that the dish represented from Manzo was not a veal chop or duck breast, but instead this egg-yolk pasta. Turns out it doesn’t escape the meat party as rich, beef drippings are added to the sauce so that this tastes like a real deal spaghetti and meat sauce.

While the strands of tajarin were cooked perfectly al dente, it was the light brown sauce full of umami notes that made this truly successful. It had a salty, meaty flavor while still remaining light and refined. It was topped with fresh herbs and grated Castelmango cheese.

They were nice enough to split the portion into two so we also had room to try some other dishes. Of the two appetizers, the beef carpaccio was the standout as the meat melted away and was enlivened by parmesan, lardo, and olive oil. And not surprisingly, our seasonal entree of medium rare duck breast was fantastic, sliced thick and accompanied with glazed turnips, ramps, and a sweet and tangy cherry sauce.

The new chef has kept the stellar pasta on the menu for now, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s only available a little while longer before the menu gets fully revamped. That’s how it goes with these big time Chef Shuffles.

Would Manzo (Eataly)’s Tajarin Al Sugo d’Arrosto make my Top 100 of the year? The rich, eggy pasta soaked up the salty and meaty sauce with gusto without being too decadent. 8 out of 10.